For the next while I've decided to post some of my first drawings that were inspired by la belle France and also the letters I wrote last winter when we were in Provence. I've been typing them up and it's really fun for me to read about these thing I've partly forgotten already.
The second still-life I did and one I still love very much.
8 x 10 on paper with pencil crayons
Carqueiranne, France
Lettre de Provence - #1
Feb. 12/02
Chers amis,
I am siting writing this in the sun with the balcony door open on my new tablecloth typiquement Provençale with sunflowers and olive branches. I never tire of the blues, reds, and yellows of le sud. I thought I would spend most of the trip looking for that special santon de Provence to keep my fisherman (from another trip) company. Would you believe I found the perfect one the first day in this little village! It is a painter with a smock (almost as messy as I manage to get my T-shirts...) with palette and brush in hand. There is also an easel with a typical provençale scene in the painting- a terracotta tile roofed house and cypress trees. In Hyeres I saw another wonderful santon scene - 4 men playing cards at a table with a Pastis bottle and glasses. The store was closed for annual holidays with no specified return date - very “midi” like. We’re reaccustoming ourselves for everything closing down for 2-4 hours in the afternoon - except restaurants, of course.
We had a very smooth flight, everything on time, baggage all arrived, and got the car very quickly. Nice airport is quite small and manageable and rather laid back. The customs people were nowhere to be seen so we didn’t even have to clear customs and our baggage was there in minutes. The flight from Frankfurt to Nice (about 1 hr. 10 min.) was great as we followed the Swiss Alps, the French Alps, then the Maritime Alps on the Mediterranean. We hadn’t travelled that route in winter so it was amazing to see the snow coverage. The Nice airport is located right on the Mediterranean so it’s a wonderful way to enter France...although nothing can quite beat stumbling bleary-eyed from your couchette compartment after tossing and turning all night on the overnight train from Paris to see the bluest of skies and the Mediterranean in all its glory and the familiar paysage du midi.
We couldn’t believe the weather on the 25th of January....sunny, blue blue skies and around 20 degrees. We sat on our hotel balcony overlooking the Promenade des Anglais and seriously thought of trying to find the shorts we had packed for April in Italy. Instead we cracked open a bottle of rosé de Provence from the mini-bar.
Everyone at the university where Jim is teaching is very nice and the university is quite pleasant. However, it is located in an area of industrial parks and big box stores - a bit of a shock after the charm of Nice. We have found a wonderfully charming village on the ocean called Carqueiranne which is only about a 15 minute drive to the university. We have fallen in love with this village, the people, and the way of life.
We began in the ground floor of a villa with the owners upstairs. We had a beautiful garden all to ourselves. They’ve been terrific - so friendly, inviting us up for drinks and appies. I mentioned I liked flowers so she ordered some special flowers for me from a friend who is a grower. She also gave us gifts of her home made lemon wine and orange marmelade made from the oranges and lemons in her garden. This is the season for oranges and lemons and it’s really neat to see all the trees laden with fruit. All the little villages have their flower festivals. Right now all the Mimosa (Acacia) trees are in bloom - beautiful yellow flowers a little like our broom.
We did find the lower level a little cool and we were hoping for a sea view so we did find a great modern apartment (we control the heat!) right in the port. The village is still very close and there are lots of interesting little shops and restaurants here as well.
We’ve had some wonderful meals - fish soup with rouille, mussels, fabulously fresh shrimp and prawns, various local fish and of course the usual wonderful free range chicken, eggs, wonderful lamb and pork - all the veg and fruits taste so fresh and “of the earth”. The markets have been really fun and we’ve some great cheeses from farms and saucage to die for.
We’ve also had a great time at flea markets. We really scored in adding five more water bottles for pastis to our collection and some neat French popular music from the 60’s. Jim tend to ferrat out smelly old books....
(to be cont'd)
