Thanks to Richard for posting my photos and congratulations on his first paying film gig....way to go!
I can hardly believe our stay here is almost over. It's been great and the last couple of weeks have had some added excitement. Jim was contacted by the University in Louisiana in Alexandria about a job as Chair of an English;, French, and Spanish Dept. He had a telephone interview which went very well and they invited him for an on campus interview Alexandria is about a 2 hr drive to New Orleans and very close to Cajun country and places such as Lafayette and Baton Rouge. So we figured we'd both go down for a week and explore the area. It's a part of the world we've always wanted to visit and living there could be quite an adventure. We've booked for about a week after we get home. We're very excited about it all. Another advantage is Houston is about a 5 hr drive and that is where a lot of Huxley papers are that Jim needs to consult for his research. Oh, and the university has a foreign studies program in Corsica. In the interview he was asked if he would support that. I think you can guess the answer! So; I guess we'll be sipping mint juleps before long....
Wednesday, March 19, 2003
Had another strange encouter in that area. We excited from the Charles de Galle metro (very large station at the Arc de Triomphe) and had a very bewildered and concerned young Spanish woman approach us because she was expecting the Charles de Gaulle
Airport. She was a long ways from there! These similar names are confusing; Another time taking the TGV from Marseilles to Paris with one stop in Lyon ( a long ways from Paris) I heard some Americans asking a porter if it was the Gare de Lyon. He said yes, which strictly speaking it was since we were in Lyon but the railway station in Paris is also called the Gare de Lyon. Lyon isn't exactly on the tourist route so I ran up while these people were getting off the train and asked them if they were going to Paris....they were.
We had to cut our Paris trip by a day but we did do pretty much everything we wanted. Monday, Jim decided he wanted a break from bread and croissants so we went to Macdonalds on the C-E to ge an egg McMuffin and English newspapers. Luckily we bought the international Herald Tribune and learned there was a rail strike set for Tue when we were leaving. Jim had to be back Wed to give his exam. The tourist bureau was just across the street and we were assured it wouldn't be a problem getting a train today. We were pleasantly surprised to be able to check out early without problem; and even more pleasantly surprised to be able to get a train within 2 hrs and no penalty for changing our half price no changes ticket. Bravo France! Experiences like this do wonders for tourist morale. The wind had gone down, the sun was out, so we basked in the sun drinking beer while we waited for our train. A great ending to a super stay in Paris.
One last thing...they seem to have painted the Eiffel Tower some awful brown colour (sort of like the LV wallets). We hadnt seen it up close in the daytime for a while but didn't it used to be dark grey?
Airport. She was a long ways from there! These similar names are confusing; Another time taking the TGV from Marseilles to Paris with one stop in Lyon ( a long ways from Paris) I heard some Americans asking a porter if it was the Gare de Lyon. He said yes, which strictly speaking it was since we were in Lyon but the railway station in Paris is also called the Gare de Lyon. Lyon isn't exactly on the tourist route so I ran up while these people were getting off the train and asked them if they were going to Paris....they were.
We had to cut our Paris trip by a day but we did do pretty much everything we wanted. Monday, Jim decided he wanted a break from bread and croissants so we went to Macdonalds on the C-E to ge an egg McMuffin and English newspapers. Luckily we bought the international Herald Tribune and learned there was a rail strike set for Tue when we were leaving. Jim had to be back Wed to give his exam. The tourist bureau was just across the street and we were assured it wouldn't be a problem getting a train today. We were pleasantly surprised to be able to check out early without problem; and even more pleasantly surprised to be able to get a train within 2 hrs and no penalty for changing our half price no changes ticket. Bravo France! Experiences like this do wonders for tourist morale. The wind had gone down, the sun was out, so we basked in the sun drinking beer while we waited for our train. A great ending to a super stay in Paris.
One last thing...they seem to have painted the Eiffel Tower some awful brown colour (sort of like the LV wallets). We hadnt seen it up close in the daytime for a while but didn't it used to be dark grey?
We werre pleased with our hotel in the Champs-Elysees area. It got us walking in different places. We aren't really into the elegance and designer stuff of that area but you can't beat the people watching on the C-E. We were approached by a middle aged Japanese couple who wanted our help. They wanted us to go into Louis Vuitton and buy two wallets for them because they were over the limit. They didn' t care what type as long as they were the brown with gold LV logo. They said they would be 300-400 Euro each and proceeded to roll out 800 E and gave it to us. It was a large store with lots of staff so figured they'd be quick to take 800 E for something we felt was worth about 50 cents...also, I guess we were willing to be helpful. This couple didn't seem the least interested if we went into the store or ran off and went about looking for other potential buyers...guess 800 Euros isn't much to them.
The staff informed us we would have to wait in line...only 3 groups ahead so not deterred. The group ahead of us weere wealthy Arabs complaining about waiting. They were ofered champange and chairs ---we were'nt. We asked about the wait and were told it would be 45 min at least. So much for that! We left and returned the money. Afterwards we thought the whole thing was rather odd...why the limit? why the wait? anyone have any ideas? We passed the store a number of times and even longer lines....
The staff informed us we would have to wait in line...only 3 groups ahead so not deterred. The group ahead of us weere wealthy Arabs complaining about waiting. They were ofered champange and chairs ---we were'nt. We asked about the wait and were told it would be 45 min at least. So much for that! We left and returned the money. Afterwards we thought the whole thing was rather odd...why the limit? why the wait? anyone have any ideas? We passed the store a number of times and even longer lines....
Back in Carqueiranne enjoying the wonderful warmth of the sun on our balcony as I write this. Paris will always be my favourite city in the world but it felt like coming home on the train the other day as soon as we started going through Provence with its palms, pines, vines; olive trees, the mountains, the ocean, tile roofs etc. It is a very special part of the world.
On Sunday we wandered through our old neighbourhood and market area around the Pompidou centre. We really enjoyed this area thelast time we were in Paris and rented an apartment for 2 weeks in '97. All the same sihts and smells...I do enjoy seeing people do their Sun shopping on a Sun morning for a special meal that day.
Pompidou too busy so went to Marais district and the Musee Picasso...always a treat...the gallery and the area.
In the evening we strolled the Rue Mouffetard (Latin Quarter but higher than St Michel aea) and went to the restaurant where we had the most fabulous paella ever. Perhaps a mistake to recapture a balmy summer night in winter but it was a pretty good paella this time and the people were great - offered a sangria before and a pear liquor after -- not the usual tourist treatment.
Had a rather mediocre meal in Ile St Louis the night before and ordered the wine of the month at 18 Euros only to be given some bulk plonk that cost them less than a Euro...wouldn' t be paris if you didn't get ripped off I guess. They also had a fabulous jazz pianist which pretty much made up for it.
On Sunday we wandered through our old neighbourhood and market area around the Pompidou centre. We really enjoyed this area thelast time we were in Paris and rented an apartment for 2 weeks in '97. All the same sihts and smells...I do enjoy seeing people do their Sun shopping on a Sun morning for a special meal that day.
Pompidou too busy so went to Marais district and the Musee Picasso...always a treat...the gallery and the area.
In the evening we strolled the Rue Mouffetard (Latin Quarter but higher than St Michel aea) and went to the restaurant where we had the most fabulous paella ever. Perhaps a mistake to recapture a balmy summer night in winter but it was a pretty good paella this time and the people were great - offered a sangria before and a pear liquor after -- not the usual tourist treatment.
Had a rather mediocre meal in Ile St Louis the night before and ordered the wine of the month at 18 Euros only to be given some bulk plonk that cost them less than a Euro...wouldn' t be paris if you didn't get ripped off I guess. They also had a fabulous jazz pianist which pretty much made up for it.
Saturday, March 15, 2003
Paris is so wonderful. Just back from seeing Notre Dame again in all its glory. Lit a candle for our friends in Poland who we were so glad to meet in Paris in 1987 after having visited their home in 1976. We attended Mass with them in Notre Dame. Angele is a devout Catholic. And also thinking of Bill Thomas; of course, and our chance meeting of him in Paris in 1976. A devout lover of life! Very moved (to tears really) of the van Gogh in the Orsay yesterday. I hqve seen them before and always impressed by the colour; movement, and intensity of life. This time I was very struck by the anguish and sadness...perhaps one need to reach a certain point in life to relte to that aspect. Great to have these Internet Cafes so available in Paris...this one has a floating rate which is never expensive and often very cheap like right now 1.40 Euros an hour. But...just wanted to get a brief message....back to Paris!
Friday, March 14, 2003
It is great being back in Paris strolling around the Latin quarter and flanning the bouquinistes on the Seine. Picked up 8 CD s from one for very cheap and reall pleased with them. Off to Ste Chapelle today and the Musee dOrsay. There is a good musical concert at Ste C. that we will probably take in this weekend if we can get tickets. Nice to have fewer crowds but does seem a little strange not sweltering in Paris and the streets teeming with people.
Monday, March 10, 2003
Just the most fabulous weather lately. We have been taking advantage of it by eating lunch (loads of fabulous seafood!) in restaurants that they refer to here as "les pieds dans l'eau"...feet in the water; Wonderful day in Cassis yesterday....I think it's our very favourite place in the region. Great animation and charming port as well as the spectacular scenery of the Calanques. We look forward to showing Maureen and Roland from Germany that region. We are really delighted that Jim's cousin and her husband are coming to visit us the end of March. We're really looking forward to seeing them again!
Looking at the ocean and enjoying my 50 daffodils for 4 Euros it is hard to believe all this stuff is going on in the world. I realize we're in an anti war mileau here in France but it is hard to comprehend the justification for war...there doesn't seem to be one. The news is certainly depressing...French journalism doesn't appear to allow ffor lighter moments...all very serious stuff.
Will get some more painting done these next few days as Jim will be very busy with work until we leave for Paris Thursday. Supposed to be great weather all over France this whole week;
Looking at the ocean and enjoying my 50 daffodils for 4 Euros it is hard to believe all this stuff is going on in the world. I realize we're in an anti war mileau here in France but it is hard to comprehend the justification for war...there doesn't seem to be one. The news is certainly depressing...French journalism doesn't appear to allow ffor lighter moments...all very serious stuff.
Will get some more painting done these next few days as Jim will be very busy with work until we leave for Paris Thursday. Supposed to be great weather all over France this whole week;
Saturday, March 08, 2003
Calanques and Sailboats
Calanques and Kayaks
More Sabots. These were supposed to be tied up but it didn't quite work out.
Church at Giens
Les Pins Parasols
These are some shops and a restaurant around the corner from our apartment.
This is our view from our living room window.
Mimosas in vase.
Un petit salamandre dans le vent.
Tuesday, March 04, 2003
Mar 4
Spring does finally seemed to have arrived....just finished having a drink at the beach in the sun...wonderful! I was speaking to a woman who has lived in this area for 53 years and she was complaining about it being the worst winter ever. Better than Victoria but we were spoiled last year.Done 20 paintings so far plus 12 postcards....they were a lot of fun.
Amazing the warm reception Chirac got in Algeria recently esp given the history of violence after independence. Very much support of Chirac and anti war feeling in France. Of course, don' t have a clue about Canada's position...no news as usual from there here.
We were at the house of a colleague of Jim's the other day and it was most interesting as they have a new traditional provencale house. It's very authentic down to having no gutters (means lots of scrubbing down), shutters that are double wooded ( horizontal on one side and vertical on the other) and of course the roof tiles...the double zay of doing it...I can now spot the fakes! They have chosen some wonderful interior colours that just suit the light here incredibly well. Fabulous yellow green, peachy red etc
Saw Lord of the Dance on the weekend in Toulon...excellent show. Had a wondeful paella before the show in a beach restaurant in the beach area of Toulon.
Feb 28
Just finished reading Eliz Bowen's The House in Paris....quite impressed by it ...must read more of her. Some fantastic waves coming in at the moment in the port. Seems like this year is more for storm watching than lounging on terasses in the sun like last year.
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