My new great big driver
Thursday, May 29, 2003
Wednesday, May 28, 2003
Yesterday I found this really cool steamer trunk at the exchange table of the Oak Bay dump. I painted the outside black and my special living room red. Amazingly there were two stickers from the White Star Line First Class which I left on and which the red background on the sticker is identical to my red! Then I turned my attention to the inside (very smelly) and ripped out all the cloth and put on my never fail stain blocker primer. Underneath the cloth and cardboard the maker of the trunk had placed comic strips of "Barney Google" by Billy DeBeck from the Philidelphia Inquirer dated 1942. Looking DeBeck up on the Internet I found out he died in 1942. Guess this trunk maker wanted to make a little memorial to him and perhaps hoping someone would find this one day. The comic strip on the lid wasn't in good shape but the one on the bottom was so I've left it there. I'm going to paint an ocean liner on the front using the one I did last year as a model.
Trunk with the outside coat of paint
comic strip
Trunk with the outside coat of paint
comic strip
Thursday, May 22, 2003
My son www.whypop.net/rich/ refers to an interesting article about how cellphones that take pictures will change a lot. The ability to take pictures and post them to websites so easily does also bring up privacy issues and problems with people becoming unwitting celebrities. I don't think the dogs I took a picture of and posted to my site will mind but perhaps their owner would. Certainly, one needs to be careful about posting pictures of people even in what I feel is a space fairly limited in exposure like this weblog. So today I will stick to plants. These are some pix of "volunteer" poppies in my garden. I just love how they find these spots and proliferate.
Thursday, May 15, 2003
The great thing about having this very small digital camera...size and weight similar to a matchbox....is that I always have it on my keychain and can get those pix I wouldn't normally get. I was downtown the other day with friends and we saw these two dogs in the sidecar of a motorcyle. It was fun to be able to get a pix of this.
Dogs on Douglas Street
Dogs on Douglas Street
Sunday, April 27, 2003
Friday, April 25, 2003
Sunday, April 20, 2003
When we were waiting for the train back to Carqueiranne from Paris I bought this really cool lightweight (about one ounce) digital camera called an "Espion". It's designed to be a keychain. Richard is over for Easter and got it working for me. It can even do little mini videos. These are some of the first pix he took just fooling around with it in the house. It was pretty cheap....69 Euros so I'm pleased it is taking such good pictures. I wanted something very lightweight to always have with me so I can take pix of things for painting.
Saturday, April 12, 2003
What I've been reading over the past two months.
"A Whistling Woman" by A.S. Byatt
Quite good and went back to telling a gripping story like in Possession along with all the usual heavy intellectual musings (the good story made all that easier to take). Seemed like things were going to end very very badly but it just ended somewhat badly and wasn't as dark as it could have been. Hope and salvation came through an 11 yr. old boy who managed to see more clearly than others. Interesting that Byatt had a son who died at age 11 - a very black time in her life as one can imagine.
"The House in Paris" by Elizabeth Bowen
Really quite intriguing, somewhat like Henry James. She set the reader up very cleverly...you really wanted to keep reading. In university I felt Henry James was pretty hard slogging. Perhaps I should give him another try now.
"The Magician's Assistant" by Ann Patchett
A very enjoyable read although the ending left me somewhat dissatisfied. I also felt the same way in Bel Canto.
"House of Splendid Isolation" by Edna O'Brien
Very interesting Irish writer and managed to present both sides of the conflict well. I look forward to reading more of her work.
"The Man in the Queue" & "The Singing Sands"
by Josephine Tey
These light little mysteries were just perfect to pass the time on the plane.
"A Whistling Woman" by A.S. Byatt
Quite good and went back to telling a gripping story like in Possession along with all the usual heavy intellectual musings (the good story made all that easier to take). Seemed like things were going to end very very badly but it just ended somewhat badly and wasn't as dark as it could have been. Hope and salvation came through an 11 yr. old boy who managed to see more clearly than others. Interesting that Byatt had a son who died at age 11 - a very black time in her life as one can imagine.
"The House in Paris" by Elizabeth Bowen
Really quite intriguing, somewhat like Henry James. She set the reader up very cleverly...you really wanted to keep reading. In university I felt Henry James was pretty hard slogging. Perhaps I should give him another try now.
"The Magician's Assistant" by Ann Patchett
A very enjoyable read although the ending left me somewhat dissatisfied. I also felt the same way in Bel Canto.
"House of Splendid Isolation" by Edna O'Brien
Very interesting Irish writer and managed to present both sides of the conflict well. I look forward to reading more of her work.
"The Man in the Queue" & "The Singing Sands"
by Josephine Tey
These light little mysteries were just perfect to pass the time on the plane.
Tuesday, April 08, 2003
I think I've contacted most people who read this blog but just to let anyone I've missed know that we decided to scrub the Louisiana job. After we arrived home Jim received word he received a SSHRC research grant over the next three years to do the Huxley letters project and couldn't keep it if he went to the US. Too good a deal to refuse and we were having second thoughts about the upheaval moving to Louisiana anyway. I think we've made the right decision. The grant allows for lots of subsidized travel to various research libraries in L.A., New York, Houston, Brussels, and England. I think Alexandria could have been a reasonably nice community but already it's 80 degrees with high humidity, severe thunderstorms, and a dangerous storm warning with possible tornados...I don't think so!
Friday, April 04, 2003
Tuesday, April 01, 2003
It is great to be home, even if it is 10 degrees and raining. Great to sleep in our own bed and wake up to the birds singing.
We had a wonderful time with Maureen and Roland the last few days we were in Carqueiranne and showed them our favourite places of Cassis and Sanary. We also introduced them to eating raw sea urchins...a big specialty in that area during the season of Jan - Mar. They didn't quite share our enthusiasm for these creatures ( the "hedgehogs" as Maureen called them!) but they did both agree the white wine of the Cassis area is very special.
Thanks again to Maureen and Roland for coming down to visit with us and bringing your "magic box"....a seemingly bottomless box that continued to produce goodies of food and drink all through the visit!
We spent our final two days in Nice basking in the sun, drinking pastis on the Promenade des Anglais and getting our last fill of fish soup and other Mediterranean specialties. Our flights home were long and tiring but good connections and everything on time. The fire alarm went off when we were in the international area of the Vancouver airport...was rather disconcerting (or perhaps not) as there seemed to be no question of letting people pass through customs and immigration without being checked properly. Caused quite a bit of havoc as the luggage shut down and we wondered if we would make our connecting flight to Victoria. Everything worked out in the end.
Back to reality seeing almost all airport employees wearing rubber gloves and to hear about all the anti Canadian sentiment from the US. One seems to be very away from all that in the south of France. I wasn't even sure what year it was when I went to fill out the customs forms....
We came back to an immaculate house, lawns cut, and with home made spaghetti sauce and bread waiting for us.
We are so lucky to have such fabulous renters...thank you, Lynne and Lloyd!
We had a wonderful time with Maureen and Roland the last few days we were in Carqueiranne and showed them our favourite places of Cassis and Sanary. We also introduced them to eating raw sea urchins...a big specialty in that area during the season of Jan - Mar. They didn't quite share our enthusiasm for these creatures ( the "hedgehogs" as Maureen called them!) but they did both agree the white wine of the Cassis area is very special.
Thanks again to Maureen and Roland for coming down to visit with us and bringing your "magic box"....a seemingly bottomless box that continued to produce goodies of food and drink all through the visit!
We spent our final two days in Nice basking in the sun, drinking pastis on the Promenade des Anglais and getting our last fill of fish soup and other Mediterranean specialties. Our flights home were long and tiring but good connections and everything on time. The fire alarm went off when we were in the international area of the Vancouver airport...was rather disconcerting (or perhaps not) as there seemed to be no question of letting people pass through customs and immigration without being checked properly. Caused quite a bit of havoc as the luggage shut down and we wondered if we would make our connecting flight to Victoria. Everything worked out in the end.
Back to reality seeing almost all airport employees wearing rubber gloves and to hear about all the anti Canadian sentiment from the US. One seems to be very away from all that in the south of France. I wasn't even sure what year it was when I went to fill out the customs forms....
We came back to an immaculate house, lawns cut, and with home made spaghetti sauce and bread waiting for us.
We are so lucky to have such fabulous renters...thank you, Lynne and Lloyd!
Saturday, March 22, 2003
Thanks to Richard for posting my photos and congratulations on his first paying film gig....way to go!
I can hardly believe our stay here is almost over. It's been great and the last couple of weeks have had some added excitement. Jim was contacted by the University in Louisiana in Alexandria about a job as Chair of an English;, French, and Spanish Dept. He had a telephone interview which went very well and they invited him for an on campus interview Alexandria is about a 2 hr drive to New Orleans and very close to Cajun country and places such as Lafayette and Baton Rouge. So we figured we'd both go down for a week and explore the area. It's a part of the world we've always wanted to visit and living there could be quite an adventure. We've booked for about a week after we get home. We're very excited about it all. Another advantage is Houston is about a 5 hr drive and that is where a lot of Huxley papers are that Jim needs to consult for his research. Oh, and the university has a foreign studies program in Corsica. In the interview he was asked if he would support that. I think you can guess the answer! So; I guess we'll be sipping mint juleps before long....
I can hardly believe our stay here is almost over. It's been great and the last couple of weeks have had some added excitement. Jim was contacted by the University in Louisiana in Alexandria about a job as Chair of an English;, French, and Spanish Dept. He had a telephone interview which went very well and they invited him for an on campus interview Alexandria is about a 2 hr drive to New Orleans and very close to Cajun country and places such as Lafayette and Baton Rouge. So we figured we'd both go down for a week and explore the area. It's a part of the world we've always wanted to visit and living there could be quite an adventure. We've booked for about a week after we get home. We're very excited about it all. Another advantage is Houston is about a 5 hr drive and that is where a lot of Huxley papers are that Jim needs to consult for his research. Oh, and the university has a foreign studies program in Corsica. In the interview he was asked if he would support that. I think you can guess the answer! So; I guess we'll be sipping mint juleps before long....
Wednesday, March 19, 2003
Had another strange encouter in that area. We excited from the Charles de Galle metro (very large station at the Arc de Triomphe) and had a very bewildered and concerned young Spanish woman approach us because she was expecting the Charles de Gaulle
Airport. She was a long ways from there! These similar names are confusing; Another time taking the TGV from Marseilles to Paris with one stop in Lyon ( a long ways from Paris) I heard some Americans asking a porter if it was the Gare de Lyon. He said yes, which strictly speaking it was since we were in Lyon but the railway station in Paris is also called the Gare de Lyon. Lyon isn't exactly on the tourist route so I ran up while these people were getting off the train and asked them if they were going to Paris....they were.
We had to cut our Paris trip by a day but we did do pretty much everything we wanted. Monday, Jim decided he wanted a break from bread and croissants so we went to Macdonalds on the C-E to ge an egg McMuffin and English newspapers. Luckily we bought the international Herald Tribune and learned there was a rail strike set for Tue when we were leaving. Jim had to be back Wed to give his exam. The tourist bureau was just across the street and we were assured it wouldn't be a problem getting a train today. We were pleasantly surprised to be able to check out early without problem; and even more pleasantly surprised to be able to get a train within 2 hrs and no penalty for changing our half price no changes ticket. Bravo France! Experiences like this do wonders for tourist morale. The wind had gone down, the sun was out, so we basked in the sun drinking beer while we waited for our train. A great ending to a super stay in Paris.
One last thing...they seem to have painted the Eiffel Tower some awful brown colour (sort of like the LV wallets). We hadnt seen it up close in the daytime for a while but didn't it used to be dark grey?
Airport. She was a long ways from there! These similar names are confusing; Another time taking the TGV from Marseilles to Paris with one stop in Lyon ( a long ways from Paris) I heard some Americans asking a porter if it was the Gare de Lyon. He said yes, which strictly speaking it was since we were in Lyon but the railway station in Paris is also called the Gare de Lyon. Lyon isn't exactly on the tourist route so I ran up while these people were getting off the train and asked them if they were going to Paris....they were.
We had to cut our Paris trip by a day but we did do pretty much everything we wanted. Monday, Jim decided he wanted a break from bread and croissants so we went to Macdonalds on the C-E to ge an egg McMuffin and English newspapers. Luckily we bought the international Herald Tribune and learned there was a rail strike set for Tue when we were leaving. Jim had to be back Wed to give his exam. The tourist bureau was just across the street and we were assured it wouldn't be a problem getting a train today. We were pleasantly surprised to be able to check out early without problem; and even more pleasantly surprised to be able to get a train within 2 hrs and no penalty for changing our half price no changes ticket. Bravo France! Experiences like this do wonders for tourist morale. The wind had gone down, the sun was out, so we basked in the sun drinking beer while we waited for our train. A great ending to a super stay in Paris.
One last thing...they seem to have painted the Eiffel Tower some awful brown colour (sort of like the LV wallets). We hadnt seen it up close in the daytime for a while but didn't it used to be dark grey?
We werre pleased with our hotel in the Champs-Elysees area. It got us walking in different places. We aren't really into the elegance and designer stuff of that area but you can't beat the people watching on the C-E. We were approached by a middle aged Japanese couple who wanted our help. They wanted us to go into Louis Vuitton and buy two wallets for them because they were over the limit. They didn' t care what type as long as they were the brown with gold LV logo. They said they would be 300-400 Euro each and proceeded to roll out 800 E and gave it to us. It was a large store with lots of staff so figured they'd be quick to take 800 E for something we felt was worth about 50 cents...also, I guess we were willing to be helpful. This couple didn't seem the least interested if we went into the store or ran off and went about looking for other potential buyers...guess 800 Euros isn't much to them.
The staff informed us we would have to wait in line...only 3 groups ahead so not deterred. The group ahead of us weere wealthy Arabs complaining about waiting. They were ofered champange and chairs ---we were'nt. We asked about the wait and were told it would be 45 min at least. So much for that! We left and returned the money. Afterwards we thought the whole thing was rather odd...why the limit? why the wait? anyone have any ideas? We passed the store a number of times and even longer lines....
The staff informed us we would have to wait in line...only 3 groups ahead so not deterred. The group ahead of us weere wealthy Arabs complaining about waiting. They were ofered champange and chairs ---we were'nt. We asked about the wait and were told it would be 45 min at least. So much for that! We left and returned the money. Afterwards we thought the whole thing was rather odd...why the limit? why the wait? anyone have any ideas? We passed the store a number of times and even longer lines....
Back in Carqueiranne enjoying the wonderful warmth of the sun on our balcony as I write this. Paris will always be my favourite city in the world but it felt like coming home on the train the other day as soon as we started going through Provence with its palms, pines, vines; olive trees, the mountains, the ocean, tile roofs etc. It is a very special part of the world.
On Sunday we wandered through our old neighbourhood and market area around the Pompidou centre. We really enjoyed this area thelast time we were in Paris and rented an apartment for 2 weeks in '97. All the same sihts and smells...I do enjoy seeing people do their Sun shopping on a Sun morning for a special meal that day.
Pompidou too busy so went to Marais district and the Musee Picasso...always a treat...the gallery and the area.
In the evening we strolled the Rue Mouffetard (Latin Quarter but higher than St Michel aea) and went to the restaurant where we had the most fabulous paella ever. Perhaps a mistake to recapture a balmy summer night in winter but it was a pretty good paella this time and the people were great - offered a sangria before and a pear liquor after -- not the usual tourist treatment.
Had a rather mediocre meal in Ile St Louis the night before and ordered the wine of the month at 18 Euros only to be given some bulk plonk that cost them less than a Euro...wouldn' t be paris if you didn't get ripped off I guess. They also had a fabulous jazz pianist which pretty much made up for it.
On Sunday we wandered through our old neighbourhood and market area around the Pompidou centre. We really enjoyed this area thelast time we were in Paris and rented an apartment for 2 weeks in '97. All the same sihts and smells...I do enjoy seeing people do their Sun shopping on a Sun morning for a special meal that day.
Pompidou too busy so went to Marais district and the Musee Picasso...always a treat...the gallery and the area.
In the evening we strolled the Rue Mouffetard (Latin Quarter but higher than St Michel aea) and went to the restaurant where we had the most fabulous paella ever. Perhaps a mistake to recapture a balmy summer night in winter but it was a pretty good paella this time and the people were great - offered a sangria before and a pear liquor after -- not the usual tourist treatment.
Had a rather mediocre meal in Ile St Louis the night before and ordered the wine of the month at 18 Euros only to be given some bulk plonk that cost them less than a Euro...wouldn' t be paris if you didn't get ripped off I guess. They also had a fabulous jazz pianist which pretty much made up for it.
Saturday, March 15, 2003
Paris is so wonderful. Just back from seeing Notre Dame again in all its glory. Lit a candle for our friends in Poland who we were so glad to meet in Paris in 1987 after having visited their home in 1976. We attended Mass with them in Notre Dame. Angele is a devout Catholic. And also thinking of Bill Thomas; of course, and our chance meeting of him in Paris in 1976. A devout lover of life! Very moved (to tears really) of the van Gogh in the Orsay yesterday. I hqve seen them before and always impressed by the colour; movement, and intensity of life. This time I was very struck by the anguish and sadness...perhaps one need to reach a certain point in life to relte to that aspect. Great to have these Internet Cafes so available in Paris...this one has a floating rate which is never expensive and often very cheap like right now 1.40 Euros an hour. But...just wanted to get a brief message....back to Paris!
Friday, March 14, 2003
It is great being back in Paris strolling around the Latin quarter and flanning the bouquinistes on the Seine. Picked up 8 CD s from one for very cheap and reall pleased with them. Off to Ste Chapelle today and the Musee dOrsay. There is a good musical concert at Ste C. that we will probably take in this weekend if we can get tickets. Nice to have fewer crowds but does seem a little strange not sweltering in Paris and the streets teeming with people.
Monday, March 10, 2003
Just the most fabulous weather lately. We have been taking advantage of it by eating lunch (loads of fabulous seafood!) in restaurants that they refer to here as "les pieds dans l'eau"...feet in the water; Wonderful day in Cassis yesterday....I think it's our very favourite place in the region. Great animation and charming port as well as the spectacular scenery of the Calanques. We look forward to showing Maureen and Roland from Germany that region. We are really delighted that Jim's cousin and her husband are coming to visit us the end of March. We're really looking forward to seeing them again!
Looking at the ocean and enjoying my 50 daffodils for 4 Euros it is hard to believe all this stuff is going on in the world. I realize we're in an anti war mileau here in France but it is hard to comprehend the justification for war...there doesn't seem to be one. The news is certainly depressing...French journalism doesn't appear to allow ffor lighter moments...all very serious stuff.
Will get some more painting done these next few days as Jim will be very busy with work until we leave for Paris Thursday. Supposed to be great weather all over France this whole week;
Looking at the ocean and enjoying my 50 daffodils for 4 Euros it is hard to believe all this stuff is going on in the world. I realize we're in an anti war mileau here in France but it is hard to comprehend the justification for war...there doesn't seem to be one. The news is certainly depressing...French journalism doesn't appear to allow ffor lighter moments...all very serious stuff.
Will get some more painting done these next few days as Jim will be very busy with work until we leave for Paris Thursday. Supposed to be great weather all over France this whole week;
Saturday, March 08, 2003
Calanques and Sailboats
Calanques and Kayaks
More Sabots. These were supposed to be tied up but it didn't quite work out.
Church at Giens
Les Pins Parasols
These are some shops and a restaurant around the corner from our apartment.
This is our view from our living room window.
Mimosas in vase.
Un petit salamandre dans le vent.
Tuesday, March 04, 2003
Mar 4
Spring does finally seemed to have arrived....just finished having a drink at the beach in the sun...wonderful! I was speaking to a woman who has lived in this area for 53 years and she was complaining about it being the worst winter ever. Better than Victoria but we were spoiled last year.Done 20 paintings so far plus 12 postcards....they were a lot of fun.
Amazing the warm reception Chirac got in Algeria recently esp given the history of violence after independence. Very much support of Chirac and anti war feeling in France. Of course, don' t have a clue about Canada's position...no news as usual from there here.
We were at the house of a colleague of Jim's the other day and it was most interesting as they have a new traditional provencale house. It's very authentic down to having no gutters (means lots of scrubbing down), shutters that are double wooded ( horizontal on one side and vertical on the other) and of course the roof tiles...the double zay of doing it...I can now spot the fakes! They have chosen some wonderful interior colours that just suit the light here incredibly well. Fabulous yellow green, peachy red etc
Saw Lord of the Dance on the weekend in Toulon...excellent show. Had a wondeful paella before the show in a beach restaurant in the beach area of Toulon.
Feb 28
Just finished reading Eliz Bowen's The House in Paris....quite impressed by it ...must read more of her. Some fantastic waves coming in at the moment in the port. Seems like this year is more for storm watching than lounging on terasses in the sun like last year.
Wednesday, February 26, 2003
Feb é-
We were in St Tropez the other day and in a restaurant I noticed a woman who I was sure wasn't French but couldn' t really figure out why....appearance, gestures could well have been French then I realized that she was smiling a lot while talking. It made me relize the French don't tend to smile that much. I guess we come across as grinning fools to them. Later we heard them speaking with American accents.
We were in St Tropez the other day and in a restaurant I noticed a woman who I was sure wasn't French but couldn' t really figure out why....appearance, gestures could well have been French then I realized that she was smiling a lot while talking. It made me relize the French don't tend to smile that much. I guess we come across as grinning fools to them. Later we heard them speaking with American accents.
feb 22
Thanks very much to my son,Richard, for scanning and posting my photos and notes. I knoz he's been really busy with midterms, essays; and work. We seem to be more or less back to our warm sunny weather. We headed off to the interior yesterday and visited Draguignan, Fayence (surprised there is not pottery or cera,ics there) and Callian (where Anthony Burgess lived for a number of years. We also got to Grasse but didn't stay long as we had enough of difficult driving situations. Fayence and Callian are charming old villages high in the mountains so lots of narrow winding roads. They on the road that came at us a little earlier in the day. Since there are lots of them and you know they are stupid, you stop. A few tried to make their getaway but soon were picked up by the three dogs. Actually, the driving was very parallel. A pack of cars accosted us and I guess we didn't pull over quite far enough. However they all passed at great speed except for the last one whose driver stopped, threw up her hands in despair, rolled down her window and insulted us by saying " 93 - that doesn't surprise me" referring to the department on our licence plate. She reminded me of the snapping dogs at the errant sheep....
Lots of drivers in bad moods - not surprising given the difficult driving situations. I much prefer the coast but the mopuntains with their pines and vistas have a special quality too. Not quite as beautiful as Tuscany. I think because it't much drier in this area. The greenness and the disposition of the cypresses makes Tuscany very special for beauty. We' ve had enough of that type of driving for a while. It's great to know there are so many places to go to between Nice and Marseilles on the coast and we can hop the autoroute ay an-y point if the driving gets to be a pain.
Thanks very much to my son,Richard, for scanning and posting my photos and notes. I knoz he's been really busy with midterms, essays; and work. We seem to be more or less back to our warm sunny weather. We headed off to the interior yesterday and visited Draguignan, Fayence (surprised there is not pottery or cera,ics there) and Callian (where Anthony Burgess lived for a number of years. We also got to Grasse but didn't stay long as we had enough of difficult driving situations. Fayence and Callian are charming old villages high in the mountains so lots of narrow winding roads. They on the road that came at us a little earlier in the day. Since there are lots of them and you know they are stupid, you stop. A few tried to make their getaway but soon were picked up by the three dogs. Actually, the driving was very parallel. A pack of cars accosted us and I guess we didn't pull over quite far enough. However they all passed at great speed except for the last one whose driver stopped, threw up her hands in despair, rolled down her window and insulted us by saying " 93 - that doesn't surprise me" referring to the department on our licence plate. She reminded me of the snapping dogs at the errant sheep....
Lots of drivers in bad moods - not surprising given the difficult driving situations. I much prefer the coast but the mopuntains with their pines and vistas have a special quality too. Not quite as beautiful as Tuscany. I think because it't much drier in this area. The greenness and the disposition of the cypresses makes Tuscany very special for beauty. We' ve had enough of that type of driving for a while. It's great to know there are so many places to go to between Nice and Marseilles on the coast and we can hop the autoroute ay an-y point if the driving gets to be a pain.
Thursday, February 20, 2003
My first painting this year in Carqueiranne. I hadn't painted for a while so wanted to start with something I knew I could do. It was a great warm up and I was pleased with it.
I took this photo last year when we first arrived in Carqueiranne and before knowing that's where we'd end up living. We were jetlagged so arrived early. I look at this sunrise almost every day while I drink my coffee so I was pleased to be able to do a painting of it.
I mainly wanted to practice doing a palm tree but it turned out pretty well so I stuck a sailboat in there too.
I wanted to do these wooden sabots last year but since I only had three brushes and nothing very fine I couldn't do it so brought the pix this year to give it a go. The same sabots are still in the port in Carqueiranne. I added a few and decided to put them going around a buoy. I am absolutely thrilled with this painting (the pic I took doesn't really do it justice)--I think it will become one of my favorites.
Feb 17
Another rather cold mixed weather day (Sun) yesterday. Enjoyed wandering around Sanary anyway-- it really is a beautiful little port. Caught the last of the market and found ourselves a warm little corner beside big windows in a restaurant. We were right in the sun (when it came out...certainly different weather from last year so far) and had some wonderful mussels and tuna steak, apple tarte to finish....they always seem different.
The plan was to go to Bandol but the sun was gone and the wind was up so decided to head home and have a whiskey: Just as well; there was sleet like rain pouring down on the way back and a halilstorm. We did have quite a nice day in Toulon Sat and even sat outside and had a drink in the port. Also went and saw a local artist exhibit (saw another one last week in Le Castellet) bith are working in oils and the colours are spectacular...maybe I'll give the water bases ones a go when I return. We also found a very large art supply store so stocked up on paper and some paint:...even bought a smock ---it will be a great souvenir. Quite a big anti war protest going on too.
On Friday we went to the Grand Var shopping centre and went to Carrefour --sort of a French equivalent of Walmart but they have a great traiteur dept 5ready made food) and got a great paella for dinner/ Also had a great selection of single malts so got some Bowmore and managzd to find some white dry vermouth for our martinis ( can usuually only get the sweet) As you can see we were going for the essentials....
Found some treasures at a flea market on Sat - a Ricard Anisette water pither in terracotta eramic and also a Ricad bottle stopper.Jim found some books---what else is new
Wow---Canada was actually mentioned in the Times of London---in the context of the gov allowing 975,000 seals to be harvested in the next three years. In another part even Camaroon's opinion on Iraq was given but no Canada; as usual. It really does seem like the country doesn't exist for the rest of the world...a strange feeling.
Had a colleage of Jim's for lunch...served Salmon wirh mustard and maple syrup...a si,pler version of Terry's recipe. Turned out pretty well considering it wasn't wild sockeye. Interesting to hear about these very competitive exams people have to go through to become secondary teachers....only about 10 percent pass but you are guranteed a job. They used to have separate ones for men and women. Seems the male one for general knowledge was much easier;...plants, vegetable; etc whereas the women has to learn about sailing rigging; masts etc....strange stuff!
Hope Richard can post this for me...can't seem to get through to Blogger.
Another rather cold mixed weather day (Sun) yesterday. Enjoyed wandering around Sanary anyway-- it really is a beautiful little port. Caught the last of the market and found ourselves a warm little corner beside big windows in a restaurant. We were right in the sun (when it came out...certainly different weather from last year so far) and had some wonderful mussels and tuna steak, apple tarte to finish....they always seem different.
The plan was to go to Bandol but the sun was gone and the wind was up so decided to head home and have a whiskey: Just as well; there was sleet like rain pouring down on the way back and a halilstorm. We did have quite a nice day in Toulon Sat and even sat outside and had a drink in the port. Also went and saw a local artist exhibit (saw another one last week in Le Castellet) bith are working in oils and the colours are spectacular...maybe I'll give the water bases ones a go when I return. We also found a very large art supply store so stocked up on paper and some paint:...even bought a smock ---it will be a great souvenir. Quite a big anti war protest going on too.
On Friday we went to the Grand Var shopping centre and went to Carrefour --sort of a French equivalent of Walmart but they have a great traiteur dept 5ready made food) and got a great paella for dinner/ Also had a great selection of single malts so got some Bowmore and managzd to find some white dry vermouth for our martinis ( can usuually only get the sweet) As you can see we were going for the essentials....
Found some treasures at a flea market on Sat - a Ricard Anisette water pither in terracotta eramic and also a Ricad bottle stopper.Jim found some books---what else is new
Wow---Canada was actually mentioned in the Times of London---in the context of the gov allowing 975,000 seals to be harvested in the next three years. In another part even Camaroon's opinion on Iraq was given but no Canada; as usual. It really does seem like the country doesn't exist for the rest of the world...a strange feeling.
Had a colleage of Jim's for lunch...served Salmon wirh mustard and maple syrup...a si,pler version of Terry's recipe. Turned out pretty well considering it wasn't wild sockeye. Interesting to hear about these very competitive exams people have to go through to become secondary teachers....only about 10 percent pass but you are guranteed a job. They used to have separate ones for men and women. Seems the male one for general knowledge was much easier;...plants, vegetable; etc whereas the women has to learn about sailing rigging; masts etc....strange stuff!
Hope Richard can post this for me...can't seem to get through to Blogger.
Thursday, February 13, 2003
Feb 13
Wonders will never cease the long awaited tunnel through Toulon is open one way ( two lanes)---supposed to have been finished years ago. Noticed in the local paper that a
young man was given two years of prison for going 210 kph on his moto through it...had many other speeding convictions and previous - mo prison. Made our train reservations for Paris and saved 50 percent since we were a mo in advance-- 75 E each return....not bad. We decided on 5 nights--never know if we might not get back to Paris. 10 paintings so far and working on two others.
Wonders will never cease the long awaited tunnel through Toulon is open one way ( two lanes)---supposed to have been finished years ago. Noticed in the local paper that a
young man was given two years of prison for going 210 kph on his moto through it...had many other speeding convictions and previous - mo prison. Made our train reservations for Paris and saved 50 percent since we were a mo in advance-- 75 E each return....not bad. We decided on 5 nights--never know if we might not get back to Paris. 10 paintings so far and working on two others.
feb 9
We finally had this famous cheese yesterday. It was wonderful. Even better cold when we tasted it fro, scopping out a hole to put in garlic and calvaddos...we didn't have any white wine. It did also taste very good over our potatotes: Potatoes were excellent and cooked in no time...unlike some carrots that took forever. Went to our Vietnamese restaurant for dinner and had our favourites -- crab claws to start and then mandarin chicken in a glalette de riz--sort of a crispy rice basket. Wonderful black mushrooms too. The owner is always very pleasant and offered us as always some rice eau de vie type of liquor. Always in a little cup that has a woman who becomes naked as you drink it. Being a small place, we were reintroduced to the charming French custom of everyone wishing each other good evening. Seems to only happen in small places. Strangely; no one greets each other when walking (unless people know each other). Difficult to get used to after Victoria. Went to Aubagne today and came across a very neat market (Sun morning) A pleasant little place but not much open on a Sun and very few restaurants with anything of interest to offer. So went to Le Castellet for lunch and happened on a fabulous restaurant. It was a little chilly so being seated by the open wood cooking fire was qa cozy bonus. We could also watch the progress of our rack of lamb being cooked - absolutely to die for and served with a garlic cream sauce. We began with ris de veau and a plate of provencale specialities (shared them), after the lamb a sorbet bathed in mar de Provence ( a sort of Brandy), then delicious pear and apple tartes. I couldn' t believe this huge German Shepherd came out from under a table at the end of the afternoon...didnùt even notice it there. Dogs are certainly king around here.
We hadn't been to Le Castellet (medieval village in the mountains) for quite a while and were a little disappointed that itùs been all spruced up and there is a proliferation of chi chi shops. Of course it was swarming with people on a Sun. It could do with a bit more grit and less chi. I hope it won't become another San Gimignano. There's an upside because we did find some wonderful stuff, mustard with cognac and banana, rum, raison jamand some reallly cool old bar glasses that will be great for wine or martinis
We finally had this famous cheese yesterday. It was wonderful. Even better cold when we tasted it fro, scopping out a hole to put in garlic and calvaddos...we didn't have any white wine. It did also taste very good over our potatotes: Potatoes were excellent and cooked in no time...unlike some carrots that took forever. Went to our Vietnamese restaurant for dinner and had our favourites -- crab claws to start and then mandarin chicken in a glalette de riz--sort of a crispy rice basket. Wonderful black mushrooms too. The owner is always very pleasant and offered us as always some rice eau de vie type of liquor. Always in a little cup that has a woman who becomes naked as you drink it. Being a small place, we were reintroduced to the charming French custom of everyone wishing each other good evening. Seems to only happen in small places. Strangely; no one greets each other when walking (unless people know each other). Difficult to get used to after Victoria. Went to Aubagne today and came across a very neat market (Sun morning) A pleasant little place but not much open on a Sun and very few restaurants with anything of interest to offer. So went to Le Castellet for lunch and happened on a fabulous restaurant. It was a little chilly so being seated by the open wood cooking fire was qa cozy bonus. We could also watch the progress of our rack of lamb being cooked - absolutely to die for and served with a garlic cream sauce. We began with ris de veau and a plate of provencale specialities (shared them), after the lamb a sorbet bathed in mar de Provence ( a sort of Brandy), then delicious pear and apple tartes. I couldn' t believe this huge German Shepherd came out from under a table at the end of the afternoon...didnùt even notice it there. Dogs are certainly king around here.
We hadn't been to Le Castellet (medieval village in the mountains) for quite a while and were a little disappointed that itùs been all spruced up and there is a proliferation of chi chi shops. Of course it was swarming with people on a Sun. It could do with a bit more grit and less chi. I hope it won't become another San Gimignano. There's an upside because we did find some wonderful stuff, mustard with cognac and banana, rum, raison jamand some reallly cool old bar glasses that will be great for wine or martinis
Saturday, February 08, 2003
Feb 3
Back to a fairly pleasant temp after being very cold yesterday. We went to the flea market in La Capt yesterday and Jim got a scarfe for 2 E. We didn't bring those sorts of things this year since it was so warm last year: Sat in the sun in Giens listening to church bells. Lovely little church in Giens...altogether a great little place. Finished my first painting yesterday. Not too exciting but wanted to do something simple first off. Went to the market in Hyeres Sat and pleased to see the Internet Cafe is open this year...pretty good computers and connections too. We decided to stay with our apartment from last year for the two months. We really can't beat the location and the view. They also have two new very comfortable armchairs so it' ts even better than last year.
At the market we came across my favourite cheese man. He remembered us from last year and gave us a present of tonne de Savoie: We also bought some other wonderful cheese and ham from the Savoie.
Feb 8
Back in Hyeres and thinking I better have this other special cheese we bought as it is going to walk away soon!
You scoop out a bit and put in white wine and garlic and bake...eat it with potatoes, smoked meat, etc....rather like a raclette. A speciality only avaliable in winter apparently.
Done 6 paintings so far and sent Richard some pix I took of 4 of them so hope he'll post them soon.
Bye for now...enough frustration with this keyboard for one day!
Back to a fairly pleasant temp after being very cold yesterday. We went to the flea market in La Capt yesterday and Jim got a scarfe for 2 E. We didn't bring those sorts of things this year since it was so warm last year: Sat in the sun in Giens listening to church bells. Lovely little church in Giens...altogether a great little place. Finished my first painting yesterday. Not too exciting but wanted to do something simple first off. Went to the market in Hyeres Sat and pleased to see the Internet Cafe is open this year...pretty good computers and connections too. We decided to stay with our apartment from last year for the two months. We really can't beat the location and the view. They also have two new very comfortable armchairs so it' ts even better than last year.
At the market we came across my favourite cheese man. He remembered us from last year and gave us a present of tonne de Savoie: We also bought some other wonderful cheese and ham from the Savoie.
Feb 8
Back in Hyeres and thinking I better have this other special cheese we bought as it is going to walk away soon!
You scoop out a bit and put in white wine and garlic and bake...eat it with potatoes, smoked meat, etc....rather like a raclette. A speciality only avaliable in winter apparently.
Done 6 paintings so far and sent Richard some pix I took of 4 of them so hope he'll post them soon.
Bye for now...enough frustration with this keyboard for one day!
Saturday, February 01, 2003
We arrived in Nice to 20 C weather but have had some unusually cool weather...sun continues to shine. Snow in Toulon, though.
Quite a surprise for people. It has been great to get back in our wonderful apartment...almost like coming home! Jim teaching is concentrated on Wed and some special lectures on some Tues so lots of time to explore. I would love to get email. Will probably mainly give news via this site. Crazy French keyboard...out of time
Quite a surprise for people. It has been great to get back in our wonderful apartment...almost like coming home! Jim teaching is concentrated on Wed and some special lectures on some Tues so lots of time to explore. I would love to get email. Will probably mainly give news via this site. Crazy French keyboard...out of time
Sunday, January 26, 2003
Monday, January 20, 2003
Thursday, January 16, 2003
Sunday, January 12, 2003
A few things I've been reading lately.
"The Lost Garden" by Helen Humphreys. Quite a quick read and fairly interesting. I don't think it was quite as successful as "Afterimage". Story of a botanist (shy, introverted) leading a group of Landgirls in WW II.
"Pause" An Emily Carr Sketchbook. Based on her experiences when she spent 18 months in a sanitorium in England. Very amusing text and cartoons.
"Open" by Lisa Moore. Read the first short story called "Melody". Pretty interesting writer with potential. I can see why it won a Giller nomination. Rather a quirky tone, which I like.
"The Rhinestone Button" by Gail Anderson-Dargatz. A pretty interesting story and captures the farming life, evangelical preachers, etc. I really do like the way she weaves an image though - this time with the colours Job "hears" - tornado at the end very well done and effective wrapping of the book.
"Life of Pi" by Yann Martel. This year's Booker winner. Might be o.k. if I was in the mood. I don't appear to be so stopped reading it...but I do admit there is a cleverness.
"The Lovely Bones" by Alice Sebold. Another one of those first novel hits it big. Pretty good start for a new writer I would say.
"I, Richard" Elizabeth George. Some short stories pretty obviously churned out for money - probably reworks of early stuff as it seems pretty clumsy. The introductions to them are the best part. Only suffered through a couple.
"The Lost Garden" by Helen Humphreys. Quite a quick read and fairly interesting. I don't think it was quite as successful as "Afterimage". Story of a botanist (shy, introverted) leading a group of Landgirls in WW II.
"Pause" An Emily Carr Sketchbook. Based on her experiences when she spent 18 months in a sanitorium in England. Very amusing text and cartoons.
"Open" by Lisa Moore. Read the first short story called "Melody". Pretty interesting writer with potential. I can see why it won a Giller nomination. Rather a quirky tone, which I like.
"The Rhinestone Button" by Gail Anderson-Dargatz. A pretty interesting story and captures the farming life, evangelical preachers, etc. I really do like the way she weaves an image though - this time with the colours Job "hears" - tornado at the end very well done and effective wrapping of the book.
"Life of Pi" by Yann Martel. This year's Booker winner. Might be o.k. if I was in the mood. I don't appear to be so stopped reading it...but I do admit there is a cleverness.
"The Lovely Bones" by Alice Sebold. Another one of those first novel hits it big. Pretty good start for a new writer I would say.
"I, Richard" Elizabeth George. Some short stories pretty obviously churned out for money - probably reworks of early stuff as it seems pretty clumsy. The introductions to them are the best part. Only suffered through a couple.
Thursday, January 09, 2003
I've really got into Emily Carr since taking the course on Kahlo, O'Keeffe, and Carr. One thing our teacher showed us some examples of was a calendar that Carr made with cartoons and comments from her dog, Billie. I really wondered why someone hasn't published this...there's an amazing amount of stuff in our local archives on Carr and they have the complete calendar online. I'll try to make a link and also write out the "wisdom by Billie" for January. (I couldn't scan it very well). The link seems to get you to the archives but then you'll have to search.
http://www.bcarchives.gov.bc.ca/cgi-bin/www2i/.visual/img_med/dir_96/pdp06071.gif
JANUARY Our studio reopens after Xmas vacation - all feeling after-Xmassy and rotton - Missus and I headaches, the fool parrot girls colds, and the pupils party bedraggled and peevish. Don't think much of Xmas. Don't think much of anybody. Don't think any of us will live long anyway. What's the good of anything. Men are brutes. Leastways C.P.R. men putting dogs down on cold rheumatic wind-swept lower decks when they travel with their missus holidaying - Bit the post-man today and feel better.
http://www.bcarchives.gov.bc.ca/cgi-bin/www2i/.visual/img_med/dir_96/pdp06071.gif
JANUARY Our studio reopens after Xmas vacation - all feeling after-Xmassy and rotton - Missus and I headaches, the fool parrot girls colds, and the pupils party bedraggled and peevish. Don't think much of Xmas. Don't think much of anybody. Don't think any of us will live long anyway. What's the good of anything. Men are brutes. Leastways C.P.R. men putting dogs down on cold rheumatic wind-swept lower decks when they travel with their missus holidaying - Bit the post-man today and feel better.
Today I'm making my last post from our trip last year. I wrote this after we returned. I'm posting a picture of a sunset in Victoria. Seems appropriate!
Italian Update
April/02
It was a great trip but it is great to be home. Very good flight home, everything on time and just time to change planes comfortably but with no waiting around. We left Nice under beautiful warm sunny skies just as we had found it on Jan 25. Our two weeks in Italy was great but we did have about half of it rather cool and rainy...nothing, however to the extent of the Arctic front that met us at Victoria airport when we arrived Monday (and apparently the weather had improved considerably from the weekend!) After three months of crisp new Euro currency, we could hardly believe the tattered old bills that came out of the bank machine in the airport. Jim almost threw out a tooney at home because he thought it was an old Mexican peso.
Italy met expectations but didn’t exceed them. I guess part of it is we are francophiles to the core. The Italians were wonderfully warm and welcoming and Florence, Rome, and Venice (even though it was flooding when we were there, it is a fascinating place that you can’t imagine the feel of until you actually experience it) were all spectacular in their own ways. Other than Rapallo,the Italian Riviera can’t compare to the French....too many long expanses of beaches with very uninteresting places around them...no neat little French villages like Bandol, Sanary, Carqueiranne, etc. Rapallo was just a lovely, stepping back in time place where we stumbled fortunately on just about the last room to be had as it was Easter. And what a room! We would have taken anything at any price, but when we opened the volets, we had this fabulous view and balcony right over the water in the port and overlooking a medieval castle to boot. After the mainly retirement community (in the winter at least) of Carqueiranne, it was wonderful to see so many children and families strolling the promenade.
We were under budget as we spent about half what we had planned for our six days in Florence. We booked a place through an agency that books places of private individuals. Figure this...we got the name of the agency, which is German, from a colleague of Jim’s, who met the owner in China.
Anyhow, we had this 60 sq meter one bedroom apartment with a big back garden in central Florence. So, of course, when we reached the hilltowns of Tuscany we splurged on a classic old style hotel in Siena with a view of the Tuscan countryside out of Room with a View. It included breakfast and dinner. The dinners were fabulous and we took advantage of their excellent wine list to sample some very good wine of the region. We really enjoyed the European style cooking and service as dining in Italy is quite different than France. Although the Trattoria experence is cheap and entertaining, the Italians tend to scarf down their food in no time flat and the courses are thrown at you at the same rate. You have to seek out a good restaurant, not like in France where they come to meet you at every step. There was a positive side to having a quick panini and beer for lunch when there is so much to see in the major places and we had limited time.
Even in the cheaper places we did get some wonderful food although a lot of it was too salty. Amazing the amount of salt the Italians must eat when you think of all the cured hams and meats and cheeses. I got a gnocci and a minestrone to die for and in another one (not so cheap) we got the local specialty of T-bone steak...absolutely fabulous except for one part that was overcooked. They serve a whole slab for two on one platter and the meat was unevenly cut. The handcutting aspect is part of the deal I think.
I wasn’t that inspired by things to paint in Italy. Shutters are all in dull colours of brown, green, or gray, and the stuccos are drab as well compared to the bright pinks, yellows, etc of the south of France. I was inspired by the old bicycles so many people seem to use and took lots of pictures so will render something out of that. An amazing difference from France is that in Italy many people are riding very old bicycles and small motos. Only seemed to be racing type bikes in France and high powered motos that are going like bats of hell and scare the life out of you on the road. That was nice to be away from in Italy. Also, Italy seems to be making some progress in restricting smoking and it’s actually working. The French seem to be content to smoke themselves to death.
Jim’s come down with a nasty cold and I’m getting over jetlag and doing all the usual unpacking, sorting, etc. We did come home to an immaculate house. Our renters were fabulous and even cleaned up the garden before they left two weeks ago and our neighbours cut our lawn just as we arrived. What a treat!
Italian Update
April/02
It was a great trip but it is great to be home. Very good flight home, everything on time and just time to change planes comfortably but with no waiting around. We left Nice under beautiful warm sunny skies just as we had found it on Jan 25. Our two weeks in Italy was great but we did have about half of it rather cool and rainy...nothing, however to the extent of the Arctic front that met us at Victoria airport when we arrived Monday (and apparently the weather had improved considerably from the weekend!) After three months of crisp new Euro currency, we could hardly believe the tattered old bills that came out of the bank machine in the airport. Jim almost threw out a tooney at home because he thought it was an old Mexican peso.
Italy met expectations but didn’t exceed them. I guess part of it is we are francophiles to the core. The Italians were wonderfully warm and welcoming and Florence, Rome, and Venice (even though it was flooding when we were there, it is a fascinating place that you can’t imagine the feel of until you actually experience it) were all spectacular in their own ways. Other than Rapallo,the Italian Riviera can’t compare to the French....too many long expanses of beaches with very uninteresting places around them...no neat little French villages like Bandol, Sanary, Carqueiranne, etc. Rapallo was just a lovely, stepping back in time place where we stumbled fortunately on just about the last room to be had as it was Easter. And what a room! We would have taken anything at any price, but when we opened the volets, we had this fabulous view and balcony right over the water in the port and overlooking a medieval castle to boot. After the mainly retirement community (in the winter at least) of Carqueiranne, it was wonderful to see so many children and families strolling the promenade.
We were under budget as we spent about half what we had planned for our six days in Florence. We booked a place through an agency that books places of private individuals. Figure this...we got the name of the agency, which is German, from a colleague of Jim’s, who met the owner in China.
Anyhow, we had this 60 sq meter one bedroom apartment with a big back garden in central Florence. So, of course, when we reached the hilltowns of Tuscany we splurged on a classic old style hotel in Siena with a view of the Tuscan countryside out of Room with a View. It included breakfast and dinner. The dinners were fabulous and we took advantage of their excellent wine list to sample some very good wine of the region. We really enjoyed the European style cooking and service as dining in Italy is quite different than France. Although the Trattoria experence is cheap and entertaining, the Italians tend to scarf down their food in no time flat and the courses are thrown at you at the same rate. You have to seek out a good restaurant, not like in France where they come to meet you at every step. There was a positive side to having a quick panini and beer for lunch when there is so much to see in the major places and we had limited time.
Even in the cheaper places we did get some wonderful food although a lot of it was too salty. Amazing the amount of salt the Italians must eat when you think of all the cured hams and meats and cheeses. I got a gnocci and a minestrone to die for and in another one (not so cheap) we got the local specialty of T-bone steak...absolutely fabulous except for one part that was overcooked. They serve a whole slab for two on one platter and the meat was unevenly cut. The handcutting aspect is part of the deal I think.
I wasn’t that inspired by things to paint in Italy. Shutters are all in dull colours of brown, green, or gray, and the stuccos are drab as well compared to the bright pinks, yellows, etc of the south of France. I was inspired by the old bicycles so many people seem to use and took lots of pictures so will render something out of that. An amazing difference from France is that in Italy many people are riding very old bicycles and small motos. Only seemed to be racing type bikes in France and high powered motos that are going like bats of hell and scare the life out of you on the road. That was nice to be away from in Italy. Also, Italy seems to be making some progress in restricting smoking and it’s actually working. The French seem to be content to smoke themselves to death.
Jim’s come down with a nasty cold and I’m getting over jetlag and doing all the usual unpacking, sorting, etc. We did come home to an immaculate house. Our renters were fabulous and even cleaned up the garden before they left two weeks ago and our neighbours cut our lawn just as we arrived. What a treat!
Wednesday, January 08, 2003
I think I have to end the letters from Provence with the first painting I did on our trip and one that remains my all time favourite. I know I have posted this before but here we go again.
Meditérranean rockfish on a provençale style tablecloth
Painted in Carqueiranne Feb/02
9 x 12 acrylics on paper
Lettre #3 cont'd
Carqueiranne, France
11 mars, 2002
One of Jim’s colleagues mentioned we were about to experience a “charming French custom”. It seems the truckers are blocading gas as part of their job action. We had noticed large lineups at the pumps recently and wondered why. Tomorrow we’re off on a few days trip to Avignon, Orange and all those beautiful villages in the Luberon. Hope we don’t get stranded....
20 mars,
An incredibly warm Mistral blowing today. Quite an interesting sound from the wind last night. Jim described it as a “chorus of billygoats” - not having had experience with billygoats I couldn’t really say if this was accurate...
No problems with gas. Seems that was all a rumour that got out of control and actually did create some shortages since so many people filled up. We had a wonderful time in the Avignon area. Weather was pretty good but you can certainly realize this part of the midi is a whole different climate from our lovely warm corner of the Mediterranean. We got some incredible wind yet wind wasn’t even predicted. Our last day we had done some tasting (and buying) in Chateau-neuf-de- Pape and had found a very cosy bistro with a restaurant on the second floor. We had just nicely settled in and then wind, rain, thunder and lightening like you wouldn’t believe began. It was great to be inside watching out. The first half hour of driving back to Carqueiranne was a nightmare but as we got closer (a two hr drive home), the clouds cleared, the sun shone. It didn’t look like our little corner of paradise had any of this extreme weather. We have been exceptionally lucky this winter for lack of rain - apparently it’s the driest in 40 years.
While we were in this part of Provence, we came across some people with very strong midi accents. In fact, at dinner our first night, I mentioned to Jim that I couldn’t even understand what the people next to us were saying. Jim pointed out that they were speaking German...guess that explains the lack of comprehension!
The villages lived up to expectation although none had quite the magic of Uzes. They almost seemed like ghost towns since the real season is summer and week-ends. We visited Gordes, Rousillon, Menebres, Bonnieux, and Oppede-le-Vieux. Also, LaCoste where the Marquis de Sade’s castle is (very much in ruins at the moment). Pierre Cardin has apparently just bought it and hopes to restore it.
The real surprise and highlight was Fountain de Vaucluse. This was not a ghost town - absolutely packed out with people even though it was a weekday. It wasn’t mentioned in the “Most Beautiful Villages of Provence” book I have but it is quite a place. There is an amazing source of water and even Jacques Costeau and his team didn’t manage to reach the bottom (and this was after 80 dives). The water comes over the cliffs and it runs as waterfalls and rivers through the town. Petrach lived here between 1337-53 and wrote some of his finest poetry during that time. The Roman amphitheatre in Orange (one of the best preserved in the world) was quite stunning along with their Arc de Triomphe.
Time to sign off as Italy becons. Thanks, Annette, for the idea about writing these letters. I don’t think I would have kept a journal and I’ve forgotten lots of what I’ve written already. I hope you enjoyed them.
Amitié.
Jim and Janice
P.S. 29 paintings to date
Meditérranean rockfish on a provençale style tablecloth
Painted in Carqueiranne Feb/02
9 x 12 acrylics on paper
Lettre #3 cont'd
Carqueiranne, France
11 mars, 2002
One of Jim’s colleagues mentioned we were about to experience a “charming French custom”. It seems the truckers are blocading gas as part of their job action. We had noticed large lineups at the pumps recently and wondered why. Tomorrow we’re off on a few days trip to Avignon, Orange and all those beautiful villages in the Luberon. Hope we don’t get stranded....
20 mars,
An incredibly warm Mistral blowing today. Quite an interesting sound from the wind last night. Jim described it as a “chorus of billygoats” - not having had experience with billygoats I couldn’t really say if this was accurate...
No problems with gas. Seems that was all a rumour that got out of control and actually did create some shortages since so many people filled up. We had a wonderful time in the Avignon area. Weather was pretty good but you can certainly realize this part of the midi is a whole different climate from our lovely warm corner of the Mediterranean. We got some incredible wind yet wind wasn’t even predicted. Our last day we had done some tasting (and buying) in Chateau-neuf-de- Pape and had found a very cosy bistro with a restaurant on the second floor. We had just nicely settled in and then wind, rain, thunder and lightening like you wouldn’t believe began. It was great to be inside watching out. The first half hour of driving back to Carqueiranne was a nightmare but as we got closer (a two hr drive home), the clouds cleared, the sun shone. It didn’t look like our little corner of paradise had any of this extreme weather. We have been exceptionally lucky this winter for lack of rain - apparently it’s the driest in 40 years.
While we were in this part of Provence, we came across some people with very strong midi accents. In fact, at dinner our first night, I mentioned to Jim that I couldn’t even understand what the people next to us were saying. Jim pointed out that they were speaking German...guess that explains the lack of comprehension!
The villages lived up to expectation although none had quite the magic of Uzes. They almost seemed like ghost towns since the real season is summer and week-ends. We visited Gordes, Rousillon, Menebres, Bonnieux, and Oppede-le-Vieux. Also, LaCoste where the Marquis de Sade’s castle is (very much in ruins at the moment). Pierre Cardin has apparently just bought it and hopes to restore it.
The real surprise and highlight was Fountain de Vaucluse. This was not a ghost town - absolutely packed out with people even though it was a weekday. It wasn’t mentioned in the “Most Beautiful Villages of Provence” book I have but it is quite a place. There is an amazing source of water and even Jacques Costeau and his team didn’t manage to reach the bottom (and this was after 80 dives). The water comes over the cliffs and it runs as waterfalls and rivers through the town. Petrach lived here between 1337-53 and wrote some of his finest poetry during that time. The Roman amphitheatre in Orange (one of the best preserved in the world) was quite stunning along with their Arc de Triomphe.
Time to sign off as Italy becons. Thanks, Annette, for the idea about writing these letters. I don’t think I would have kept a journal and I’ve forgotten lots of what I’ve written already. I hope you enjoyed them.
Amitié.
Jim and Janice
P.S. 29 paintings to date
Le pique-nique
8 x 10 felt pens on paper - May/01
Lettre de Provence #3 cont'd
le 11 mars 2002
Carqueiranne, France
Searching desperately for peanut butter today - no luck. Funny how certain cravings come after you’ve been travelling a while. I looked forward to and enjoyed immensely a McDonald’s meal. We went mainly because we wanted to eat before we saw a 7pm film. It still does amaze me that no other restaurant other than McDonalds serves a meal before 7pm in the evening...but then Hyeres is a fairly small town and it isn’t the tourist season. I also wouldn’t mind a pizza like we get at home. It can be quite good here but it is different and they seem to be obsessed with “feu au bois” (woodburning ovens) for pizza. Most of them don’t have an open fire so you don’t get the smoke taste - it mainly seems to serve the function of burning half the crust. Even the travelling vans that make pizza have their woodstove. It’s funny to see smoke streaming out the roof. All adding to the various smoke by burning around here - some farm related and a year round forest fire problem because of the lack of rain. Saw the Canadairs out the other day. Along with the pollen of mimosas and other things it does make it somewhat irritating for the eyes. I did manage to replicate a home-made hotdog - my hamburgers were not a success.
We did see two good films, “Amen” (a new Costa Brava film) and “M. Patignole”. Both about the second world war. Seems to be a popular subject for the French. I’ve become quite fascinated by these “campaniles” - the wrought iron bell towers on top of so many towers and steeples here. Some are extremely ornate, although I am more attracted to the simple ones. I got a very good book from the library on them. I was quite interested to see that some designs are taken directly from nature. They showed a picture of the shell of a fruit (pavot?) and it was the same design as the campanile. I did one today. I was quite pleased with it; however, mine will never manage to be symetrical. I guess they’ll be like the carpets that are never squate as only Allah is perfect.
12 mars, 02
I’ve done 20 paintings now and am running out of white paint and need some more brushes. The three brushes I have can’t quite manage a lot of stuff I’d like to do. I have pictures and ideas for future paintings to last me for years. Perhaps I’ll even be inspired by local subjects when I get home.
Very close to us is an area where they do wind surfing and “kite boarding” (they use the English name for this although the wind surfing is called “surf voile”). It’s very colourful to see and the kite boarding is amazing to watch. It’s like snowboarding with a large kite so they get airborne and do flips and stuff. I bought a magazine on it and it seems they do it in the snow as well. I hope to render it in a painting. I surprised myself by doing cyclists on the path along the coast. It turned out quite well. I even did one of a group of brightly coloured motorcycles we saw in St. Tropez. These are all attractive subjects for me because of the bright colours. Even the non-racing cyclists seem to wear the multicoloured racing gear here. This cycling path is wonderful for people and it gets a lot of use. I believe it goes along the coast from Marseilles to St. Tropez. There are breaks in it but the coastal road is safe for cyclists too. People are driving pretty reasonably.
It’s interesting to see the differences in packaging. I’m pleased to see recycling depots in many places. In one sense the French have always recycled with the habit of taking baskets for shopping, getting table wine in their own bottles, etc. Also, cleaning products refills come in plastic sacs so lots of plastic bottles get reused with very little garbage from the package. In another sense the packaging is very wasteful. So much is packaged in small quantities. Even when you think you are buying a large size, often there are lots of little packages in it - rather like unwrapping Russian dolls. I guess concerns about freshness and a lack of storage in cupboards and fridges drives this. Although they do have sales with a price reduction, the best sales (for food especially) are usually something like “buy 2 get one free”. And the 3 items are shrinkwrapped together, always. Pricewise we aren’t really spending anymore than at home since wine and cheese are much cheaper (major items for us!)
Restaurants often mark up wine 3 to 4 times yet food, especially if you order from the 3 course menu items seems a much better value than Canada. In fact, I can’t quite see how they do it. To give you an idea, we had a lunch in a good restaurant with a view of the port for $27 each (all tips and tax included). I had a warm goat cheese salad to start (ingredients would have cost around $5), then lamb chops ( the four chops would have been $12 and then there were also veg which aren’t cheap around here, but very good and fresh by the way), fresh strawberry pie for dessert ($6 to buy in a pastry shop). So, I would have paid close to $27 myself...go figure!
Sunday, January 05, 2003
The picture today is of a Deux Chevaux...I just love these old simpe French cars.
Deux Chevaux
8 x 10 felt pens on paper
Carqueiranne, France
Lettre de Provence #3
11 mars, 02
Yesterday, a Sunday, was probably the best day of the year for weather - sunny and warm all over France. It was great to see everyone out (and their dog...). We had a wonderful day in Cassis. Although it’s fairly close to Bandol, we hadn’t been there before. Beautiful vinyard country and then you come across this wonderful port and beach town - very charming, lots for the eye to see. We started by seeing an exhibition of a local Cassis artist whose style I really liked - naive, provençale scenes - also a number of rather jarring religious scenes in quite a different style (these were priced at over double the other paintings - I guess salvation still comes at a cost).
There are also the highest cliffs in Europe in this region and they can be viewed from the port. In Ireland, we also saw the highest cliffs in Europe apparently. These in France are very white and not quite as rugged looking. Something about the North Atlantic as opposed to the peaceful Mediterranean. In Ireland we had a quite scary experience (Susan and Alan, I’m sure you haven’t forgotten it!) in a small boat trying to see these cliffs from the ocean. Our guidebook had recommeded the boat over the “scary” road. Another opportunity to appreciate the power of the ocean. We were going to take a boat to see this cliff and others but lunch “en pleine soleil” stretched to about three hours so we’ll do it in two weeks time when we return. There’s a fabulous restaurant right on the ocean that was completely booked so we’ve made reservations for that Sunday.
We had a a great meal of mussels, shrimp, and prawns washed down with the local white wine - quite renowned but very limited quantities so you almost need to come to the region to get it. People next to us were in rapsody eating their sea urchins and other slimy looking things out of shells. We’ll probably go that route next time. We met a very charming couple from Lyon. They were having squid stuffed with mussels - also looked very good.
Cassis seems to be the place to come on a Sunday and show off your latest outfit. The women were especially elegantly dressed. There were even a number of children and retired folks in swimming. It was about 30 degreees in the sun. We spoke to these older folks and aksed them about the water temperature - about 12 degrees. We’re not wimps about ocean temp but that’s a little chilly for us. They said you get used to it. The summer temp of the ocean is just perfect for us...around 20 degrees.
We came back via Bandol hoping the Hotel Splendid might be open but it was still closed for the season. Very pleasant to see the area again anyway....Annette, Chris and Susan....the Splendid retains its charm.
The other day we drove up to Menton. We enjoyed Menton very much and particularly the Italian influence. It is only a matter of miles from Italy. We heard lots of Italian and it really has whetted our appetite for Italy. We ate in an Italian restaurant. Jim had some wonderful veal and spaghetti and I had “fritures” - tiny fried fish to die for. Monique, we hadn’t had these in France since you introduced them to us in the lakeside restaurant in Annecy. We did have them in Whistler once and tried to have them again, didn’t we, Don and Elaine? I’m sure you remember that dinner well...no friture, Jim forgot his wallet, salt rimming the Spanish coffee, etc.
I’m sure we were seated across from the Mafia (could it be my imagination...I had been reading about the Mafia presence in that area...) One older man did all the talking to a younger man who kept asking about “protection”. The older man was flanked by a thuggish looking fellow who said nothing and ate numerous plates of frites. Ah...the intrigue...(and this was before I started watching The Sopranos). It was a very unpleasant drive, though. Too far in one day and Jim insisted on barelling along in our little car at 85-90 miles an hour. Many people going faster but also many going slower. It’s too fast really. We’re going to drive slower in future. Maintaining the autoroute speed means driving quite aggressively and weaving in and out a lot. Combine that with very high terrain and tunnels and I begin to feel very uncomfortable. Trucks, cars, and motorcycles passing and whatever in these tunnels. The reopening of the Mont Blanc tunnel after three years in the news all week (very serious accident with 39 dead 3 years ago) but seemed to have no effect of driving habits in these tunnels.
We did drive the coast route back through Monaco and Monte Carlo. Patty and Terry, it brought back many pleasant memories of that trip we took with you that day in the convertible. Richard, we didn’t see many fancy cars coming back from the Casino this time. Perhaps that’s more a summertime thing.
Deux Chevaux
8 x 10 felt pens on paper
Carqueiranne, France
Lettre de Provence #3
11 mars, 02
Yesterday, a Sunday, was probably the best day of the year for weather - sunny and warm all over France. It was great to see everyone out (and their dog...). We had a wonderful day in Cassis. Although it’s fairly close to Bandol, we hadn’t been there before. Beautiful vinyard country and then you come across this wonderful port and beach town - very charming, lots for the eye to see. We started by seeing an exhibition of a local Cassis artist whose style I really liked - naive, provençale scenes - also a number of rather jarring religious scenes in quite a different style (these were priced at over double the other paintings - I guess salvation still comes at a cost).
There are also the highest cliffs in Europe in this region and they can be viewed from the port. In Ireland, we also saw the highest cliffs in Europe apparently. These in France are very white and not quite as rugged looking. Something about the North Atlantic as opposed to the peaceful Mediterranean. In Ireland we had a quite scary experience (Susan and Alan, I’m sure you haven’t forgotten it!) in a small boat trying to see these cliffs from the ocean. Our guidebook had recommeded the boat over the “scary” road. Another opportunity to appreciate the power of the ocean. We were going to take a boat to see this cliff and others but lunch “en pleine soleil” stretched to about three hours so we’ll do it in two weeks time when we return. There’s a fabulous restaurant right on the ocean that was completely booked so we’ve made reservations for that Sunday.
We had a a great meal of mussels, shrimp, and prawns washed down with the local white wine - quite renowned but very limited quantities so you almost need to come to the region to get it. People next to us were in rapsody eating their sea urchins and other slimy looking things out of shells. We’ll probably go that route next time. We met a very charming couple from Lyon. They were having squid stuffed with mussels - also looked very good.
Cassis seems to be the place to come on a Sunday and show off your latest outfit. The women were especially elegantly dressed. There were even a number of children and retired folks in swimming. It was about 30 degreees in the sun. We spoke to these older folks and aksed them about the water temperature - about 12 degrees. We’re not wimps about ocean temp but that’s a little chilly for us. They said you get used to it. The summer temp of the ocean is just perfect for us...around 20 degrees.
We came back via Bandol hoping the Hotel Splendid might be open but it was still closed for the season. Very pleasant to see the area again anyway....Annette, Chris and Susan....the Splendid retains its charm.
The other day we drove up to Menton. We enjoyed Menton very much and particularly the Italian influence. It is only a matter of miles from Italy. We heard lots of Italian and it really has whetted our appetite for Italy. We ate in an Italian restaurant. Jim had some wonderful veal and spaghetti and I had “fritures” - tiny fried fish to die for. Monique, we hadn’t had these in France since you introduced them to us in the lakeside restaurant in Annecy. We did have them in Whistler once and tried to have them again, didn’t we, Don and Elaine? I’m sure you remember that dinner well...no friture, Jim forgot his wallet, salt rimming the Spanish coffee, etc.
I’m sure we were seated across from the Mafia (could it be my imagination...I had been reading about the Mafia presence in that area...) One older man did all the talking to a younger man who kept asking about “protection”. The older man was flanked by a thuggish looking fellow who said nothing and ate numerous plates of frites. Ah...the intrigue...(and this was before I started watching The Sopranos). It was a very unpleasant drive, though. Too far in one day and Jim insisted on barelling along in our little car at 85-90 miles an hour. Many people going faster but also many going slower. It’s too fast really. We’re going to drive slower in future. Maintaining the autoroute speed means driving quite aggressively and weaving in and out a lot. Combine that with very high terrain and tunnels and I begin to feel very uncomfortable. Trucks, cars, and motorcycles passing and whatever in these tunnels. The reopening of the Mont Blanc tunnel after three years in the news all week (very serious accident with 39 dead 3 years ago) but seemed to have no effect of driving habits in these tunnels.
We did drive the coast route back through Monaco and Monte Carlo. Patty and Terry, it brought back many pleasant memories of that trip we took with you that day in the convertible. Richard, we didn’t see many fancy cars coming back from the Casino this time. Perhaps that’s more a summertime thing.
Friday, January 03, 2003
Today a table I painted of our favourite hotel in Bandol. We've been going to the Hotel Splendid since 1976.
18 fevrier
25 fevrier
We had a super lunch and afternoon with Monique’s mother and partner in their new apartment they’ve rented by the year in St. Aygulf. It’s about a 1 1/2 hour drive from Carqueiranne, very close to St. Tropez. Monique, you will really enjoy being there - wonderful sandy beaches very close by and lots of interesting places to explore like Fréjus, St. Raphael, etc. I took some video of your mom and even Roger cooking the “sauté de veau” as well as the apartment and the region. It was a very special afternoon - we hadn’t seen Jacqueline for over 15 years but it seemed like we’d just seen her last week. We had a wonderful drive home all along the coast and driving into a fabulous sunset in the end.
People really do seem quite spoiled by the weather here and complain if it isn’t brilliant sunshine all the time. It’s quite amusing, really. We had a wonderful meal in one of the restaurants in the port that specializes in fresh seafood of the region. First of all, “Degustation des Coquillages” (shellfish - 2 types of oysters (fabulous...Don and Elaine, I think they were even better than the Donegal oysters) shrimp, mussels, sea-snails, and something they substituted for the sea urchins since they weren’t available - a wonderful taste - like tasting the ocean. We then ordered from the “fish cart” - they bring you these freshly caught fish and you choose. We chose “Sars” - something very special from Provence waters. The presentation was incredible. They brought the two whole fish out on a flaming platter (soaked in anisette) with thyme and laurel branches on fire and sending off the most fragrant smoke. They then deboned the fish, made sure to get the cheeks out as well - to die for! I think I’ll try this with whole sole and thyme and rosemary branches - any volunteers?
4 mars
We just returned from a weekend trip to visit friends in Montpellier and to explore more of interior Provence to find letters from Annette and Elaine posted on our door. What a wonderful surprise! Thank you both so much. I really enjoyed reading the clippings. Mail seems to take a long time. I think the postal workers are taking some job action.
We visited Nimes and Arles and were incredibly impressed with their Roman arenas. Still bullfights in both at certain times of the year. Although it is a very cruel sport, it does remain a fascination for both of us. We saw a couple of bullfights on TV when we were in Nimes - very interesting to see it up close. The one we saw many years ago in Barcelona was in a massive modern arena. We won’t have the opportunity, but somehow, seeing a bloodsport on a sweltering day in an arena where gladiators fought it out over 2,000 years ago has a strange appeal.
To more tranquil subjects. We also visited an astoundingly beautiful village called Uzes which has, among many things, a beautiful cathedral and tower (rather like the leaning tower of Pisa. I probably took a roll of film in 10 minutes since everything was so wonderful for the eye. Even the cats sunning themselves on the roofs seemed to have some magical aspect. We arrived on a Sunday morning as the bells were tolling for Mass and we went inside the cathedral to see the interior before the Mass started. The young priest was greeting and chatting with all the parishioners - a very charming scene after all the physical beauty.
uzes.mov
Uzes Cathedral, Sunday Mass
On the main street of the village there was even a flea market and we found a really neat old publicity ad for one of our water bottles dating from the 50’s. Many antique stores, all with dogs lying across the threshold in the sun. We went into a very large one mainly to look at the beautiful tables, armoires, huge paintings etc. - nothing very portable but beautiful to look at. Lo and behold, in a little corner was an old Ricard water bottle from before WW II. He sold it to us for a great price ($15). Then onto Pont du Garde, that very well known Roman Aquaduct - a wonder of the world, really. A Unesco sight now and very well done. Many, many inspirations for painting. I’ve done 15 paintings so far.
Amitié,
Jim and Janice
18 fevrier
25 fevrier
We had a super lunch and afternoon with Monique’s mother and partner in their new apartment they’ve rented by the year in St. Aygulf. It’s about a 1 1/2 hour drive from Carqueiranne, very close to St. Tropez. Monique, you will really enjoy being there - wonderful sandy beaches very close by and lots of interesting places to explore like Fréjus, St. Raphael, etc. I took some video of your mom and even Roger cooking the “sauté de veau” as well as the apartment and the region. It was a very special afternoon - we hadn’t seen Jacqueline for over 15 years but it seemed like we’d just seen her last week. We had a wonderful drive home all along the coast and driving into a fabulous sunset in the end.
People really do seem quite spoiled by the weather here and complain if it isn’t brilliant sunshine all the time. It’s quite amusing, really. We had a wonderful meal in one of the restaurants in the port that specializes in fresh seafood of the region. First of all, “Degustation des Coquillages” (shellfish - 2 types of oysters (fabulous...Don and Elaine, I think they were even better than the Donegal oysters) shrimp, mussels, sea-snails, and something they substituted for the sea urchins since they weren’t available - a wonderful taste - like tasting the ocean. We then ordered from the “fish cart” - they bring you these freshly caught fish and you choose. We chose “Sars” - something very special from Provence waters. The presentation was incredible. They brought the two whole fish out on a flaming platter (soaked in anisette) with thyme and laurel branches on fire and sending off the most fragrant smoke. They then deboned the fish, made sure to get the cheeks out as well - to die for! I think I’ll try this with whole sole and thyme and rosemary branches - any volunteers?
4 mars
We just returned from a weekend trip to visit friends in Montpellier and to explore more of interior Provence to find letters from Annette and Elaine posted on our door. What a wonderful surprise! Thank you both so much. I really enjoyed reading the clippings. Mail seems to take a long time. I think the postal workers are taking some job action.
We visited Nimes and Arles and were incredibly impressed with their Roman arenas. Still bullfights in both at certain times of the year. Although it is a very cruel sport, it does remain a fascination for both of us. We saw a couple of bullfights on TV when we were in Nimes - very interesting to see it up close. The one we saw many years ago in Barcelona was in a massive modern arena. We won’t have the opportunity, but somehow, seeing a bloodsport on a sweltering day in an arena where gladiators fought it out over 2,000 years ago has a strange appeal.
To more tranquil subjects. We also visited an astoundingly beautiful village called Uzes which has, among many things, a beautiful cathedral and tower (rather like the leaning tower of Pisa. I probably took a roll of film in 10 minutes since everything was so wonderful for the eye. Even the cats sunning themselves on the roofs seemed to have some magical aspect. We arrived on a Sunday morning as the bells were tolling for Mass and we went inside the cathedral to see the interior before the Mass started. The young priest was greeting and chatting with all the parishioners - a very charming scene after all the physical beauty.
uzes.mov
Uzes Cathedral, Sunday Mass
On the main street of the village there was even a flea market and we found a really neat old publicity ad for one of our water bottles dating from the 50’s. Many antique stores, all with dogs lying across the threshold in the sun. We went into a very large one mainly to look at the beautiful tables, armoires, huge paintings etc. - nothing very portable but beautiful to look at. Lo and behold, in a little corner was an old Ricard water bottle from before WW II. He sold it to us for a great price ($15). Then onto Pont du Garde, that very well known Roman Aquaduct - a wonder of the world, really. A Unesco sight now and very well done. Many, many inspirations for painting. I’ve done 15 paintings so far.
Amitié,
Jim and Janice
Thursday, January 02, 2003
I was making ratatouille in my early days of drawing so did this still life.
Ratatouille Provençale
8 x 10 felt pens on paper April/01
Carqueiranne, France
Lettre de Provence - 2
Chers amis,
12 février
I just went out to get my Times newspaper and noticed a fisherman coming in so went out to see what he had caught. Not a whole lot but according to the people around here it seemed like a fairly good day. He had been out since 3am and it was now about 10am I guess the fish are depleting around here as well. He hadn’t been out for a while because the Mistral had been blowing. With these small boats I can see why they don’t go out in wind. He had the fish separated into those to fry up and those for bouillbaise. I bought some of the frying fish (some were still moving). They will be part of a still life (well, almost still...) I plan to do and then we’ll have them for dinner. I wanted to do something special for my first painting here - this will be perfect. A woman who was also buying fish was encouraging me to buy the ones for bouillbaise and to make the soup. When I proferred the excuse of a small kitchen, she admonished me by saying you can do lots of things in a small kitchen...you only need the will to do so....
17 février
I have painted four pictures now and am quite pleased with them. I set up the fish on a white plate with blue trim and the plate on a blue and white striped tablecloth. I thought the plae, shimmery colours of the fish would be a good contrast to the blue and white bold stripes. It was all very dull and not my style at all. I added yellow stripes to the tablecloth - still not enough, then red stripes, no, still not enough colour. The pale fish became red, blue, and yellow (I’m sure there are fish those colours somewhere in the Mediterranean!). Still didn’t quite work so then I got the idea of making the striped tablecloth like a provençale pattern and added lemon and olive branches and sunflowers to it. Now it worked!
My second painting was Cyprus trees against mountains. I did it very quickly, even threw in some shadowing just out of my head - it’s a lot more fun to do light and dark shading if you just make it up, I’ve discovered. It turned out rather abstract and I quite like it. Since I’m just getting into the painting, having done mainly pencil crayons and felt pens before, I brought mainly cheap paper and thought I’d do a lot of experimenting here - more sketch ideas I’ll rework at home on proper canvasses when I have more space and better materials. It’s turned out to be a very good idea as it’s freeing me up to play around and take chances. My third painting was some Mimosa branches in a pastis pitcher we picked up at a flea market. These beautiful yellow bloom trees are now out and it’s just wonderful to see them.. My fourth was some old fishing boats from the port. (By the way, the fish were fabulous to eat....you can’t beat fresh off the boat)
It takes a bit of getting used to all the opening and closing times and what day of the week various businesses take off. It varies a lot. I was looking forward to getting paella from the traiteur today, but alas, closed on Mondays. When we were in St. Tropez (really quite neat) yesterday we came across a little business selling a number of things including a soap that cured wrinkles, acne, chilbain, arthritis, eczema, indigestion, etc. (Actually, looked just like soap you get at any market for 1/10 the price). Our ears perked up when she said she was open every afternoon. We felt how simple to remember! Then she said, “excepté, excepté...quand il pleut aux cords” (when it rains cats and dogs). Seems like as good a reason as any to close in this rather magnificent climate. The sun is back today but we did get some rain the last few days. Good for things here as apparently there is a drought.
I’m enjoying watching the dogs in the area. Lots of labs and larger dogs around although the preference seems to be for smaller ones. Quite a few run freely through the village. Rather odd to see dogs on the loose now but was the norm in our neighbourhood when I was growing up. It’s quite interesting to see these dogs free and going about their explorations on their own - different from a dog used to a leash. Picking up after your dog isn’t done but there are street sweepers out all day so the droppings in this little village aren’t really a problem (Paris is another matter...) The big mechanized street sweeper goes through this little town every morning as well. There is one innovation they are trying and that’s a contraption called “Ville Propre” (Clean City). The idea is that the dog does his thing on some wooden slatted area that opens up and flushes. So far, we haven’t seen any dogs using it. People certainly love their dogs and are very tolerant towards them. In the local post office, there is a notice asking people not to use their cell phones when at the counter. However, plunking your little dog on the counter even if it knocks over various things seems to be the norm and almost encouraged.
Ratatouille Provençale
8 x 10 felt pens on paper April/01
Carqueiranne, France
Lettre de Provence - 2
Chers amis,
12 février
I just went out to get my Times newspaper and noticed a fisherman coming in so went out to see what he had caught. Not a whole lot but according to the people around here it seemed like a fairly good day. He had been out since 3am and it was now about 10am I guess the fish are depleting around here as well. He hadn’t been out for a while because the Mistral had been blowing. With these small boats I can see why they don’t go out in wind. He had the fish separated into those to fry up and those for bouillbaise. I bought some of the frying fish (some were still moving). They will be part of a still life (well, almost still...) I plan to do and then we’ll have them for dinner. I wanted to do something special for my first painting here - this will be perfect. A woman who was also buying fish was encouraging me to buy the ones for bouillbaise and to make the soup. When I proferred the excuse of a small kitchen, she admonished me by saying you can do lots of things in a small kitchen...you only need the will to do so....
17 février
I have painted four pictures now and am quite pleased with them. I set up the fish on a white plate with blue trim and the plate on a blue and white striped tablecloth. I thought the plae, shimmery colours of the fish would be a good contrast to the blue and white bold stripes. It was all very dull and not my style at all. I added yellow stripes to the tablecloth - still not enough, then red stripes, no, still not enough colour. The pale fish became red, blue, and yellow (I’m sure there are fish those colours somewhere in the Mediterranean!). Still didn’t quite work so then I got the idea of making the striped tablecloth like a provençale pattern and added lemon and olive branches and sunflowers to it. Now it worked!
My second painting was Cyprus trees against mountains. I did it very quickly, even threw in some shadowing just out of my head - it’s a lot more fun to do light and dark shading if you just make it up, I’ve discovered. It turned out rather abstract and I quite like it. Since I’m just getting into the painting, having done mainly pencil crayons and felt pens before, I brought mainly cheap paper and thought I’d do a lot of experimenting here - more sketch ideas I’ll rework at home on proper canvasses when I have more space and better materials. It’s turned out to be a very good idea as it’s freeing me up to play around and take chances. My third painting was some Mimosa branches in a pastis pitcher we picked up at a flea market. These beautiful yellow bloom trees are now out and it’s just wonderful to see them.. My fourth was some old fishing boats from the port. (By the way, the fish were fabulous to eat....you can’t beat fresh off the boat)
It takes a bit of getting used to all the opening and closing times and what day of the week various businesses take off. It varies a lot. I was looking forward to getting paella from the traiteur today, but alas, closed on Mondays. When we were in St. Tropez (really quite neat) yesterday we came across a little business selling a number of things including a soap that cured wrinkles, acne, chilbain, arthritis, eczema, indigestion, etc. (Actually, looked just like soap you get at any market for 1/10 the price). Our ears perked up when she said she was open every afternoon. We felt how simple to remember! Then she said, “excepté, excepté...quand il pleut aux cords” (when it rains cats and dogs). Seems like as good a reason as any to close in this rather magnificent climate. The sun is back today but we did get some rain the last few days. Good for things here as apparently there is a drought.
I’m enjoying watching the dogs in the area. Lots of labs and larger dogs around although the preference seems to be for smaller ones. Quite a few run freely through the village. Rather odd to see dogs on the loose now but was the norm in our neighbourhood when I was growing up. It’s quite interesting to see these dogs free and going about their explorations on their own - different from a dog used to a leash. Picking up after your dog isn’t done but there are street sweepers out all day so the droppings in this little village aren’t really a problem (Paris is another matter...) The big mechanized street sweeper goes through this little town every morning as well. There is one innovation they are trying and that’s a contraption called “Ville Propre” (Clean City). The idea is that the dog does his thing on some wooden slatted area that opens up and flushes. So far, we haven’t seen any dogs using it. People certainly love their dogs and are very tolerant towards them. In the local post office, there is a notice asking people not to use their cell phones when at the counter. However, plunking your little dog on the counter even if it knocks over various things seems to be the norm and almost encouraged.
Wednesday, January 01, 2003
This is a combination of boats from pictures I had from Sanary and also Ireland.
Fishing boats
9 x 12 pencil crayons on paper
April/01
Lettre de Provence #1 (cont'd)
We have experienced the usual frustrations one has when setting up in a foreign country. Driving was quite an adventure initially as Jim was confusing red with green lights. Combined with a different luminosity and different positioning, his partial colour blindness was a problem. We’ve been testing the medical system as well as Jim got a very bad eye infection and I’ve had a cold and a toothache.
We’ve been pleasantly surprised that the people around here aren’t worrying too much about Paris and its numerous regulations as it became obvious the university didn’t do all the official stuff for Jim’s appointment. It could have been tricky as to get paid he needed a French bank account. To have a French bank account, you need a resident permit which is a big bureaucratic deal. We were expecting a big hassle at the local bank but the south of France reaction seems to be to shrug at such foolishness and ignore the rules. Then, there’s always the European Union and all its new rules and regulations you can blame for being confused (and they usually do!).
We really love our little apartment. We have two bedrooms, a large living/dining room, a large (with washing machine) bathroom, large balcony, and a Lillipution kitchen.. It’s rather like playing house with everything so small. The kitchen is really quite cute and is described as an “American kitchen” which I thought meant it had everything...stove, fridge, dishwasher, blender, juicer, toaster, coffee-maker, microwave, etc. (I’ve learned since that “American kitchen” means it’s an open plan so it isn’t shut away in a separate room.) Our apartment is decorated in a nautical theme - really well done and excellent dishes, glassware, etc. Our front window is rather like a large porthole and you can cosy up to the window and perch on the couch watching the activities of the port and the street. They have very nice illuminations on the street at night and we love being a few steps away from everything. It’s so much fun to shop daily.
I haven’t done much reading except the London Times that a little grocery store ordered in everyday for me. Also, we became members of the local library and are taking out books and magazines on Provence mainly. We’ve got some excellent books on the trees and flowers of the area.
Jim’s Camosun email is working well but my Shaw webmail keeps bouncing me off - no doubt a combination of Shaw and a poor connection and slow computer in Jim’s office. It’s not convenient for me to go to the university anyway and there isn’t an Internet cafe close by so I guess I’ll be writing in the old style - I may even learn calligraphy while I’m at it! I’m collecting ideas for painting but haven’t done anything yet, although I have set up a studio in our bedroom and have adapted a clothes valet for an easel.
Jim’s first teaching day yesterday went very well and he enjoyed the students very much. He begins with a two hour lecture then later has two 1 1/2 hr seminars with this group broken in two. Today, he has a repeat two hour lecture and no seminars. That’s his teaching except for some special lectures so we’ll have Wed-Sun free for exploring the area. It turned out to be a rather stressful day as well as they were testing the fire alarm almost constantly during the entire day. Someone hadn’t returned the key for the video cupboard so seminar plans had to be reorganized, printer cartridges still hadn’t arrived even though he had been asking for them for 2 weeks, canteen was inexplicably closed so lunch was a kit-kat bar and a coke, and various other things.
Amitié a tous,
Jim and Janice
P.S. Jim says him mixing of red and green lights is a “pack of lies”....you be the judge!
Fishing boats
9 x 12 pencil crayons on paper
April/01
Lettre de Provence #1 (cont'd)
We have experienced the usual frustrations one has when setting up in a foreign country. Driving was quite an adventure initially as Jim was confusing red with green lights. Combined with a different luminosity and different positioning, his partial colour blindness was a problem. We’ve been testing the medical system as well as Jim got a very bad eye infection and I’ve had a cold and a toothache.
We’ve been pleasantly surprised that the people around here aren’t worrying too much about Paris and its numerous regulations as it became obvious the university didn’t do all the official stuff for Jim’s appointment. It could have been tricky as to get paid he needed a French bank account. To have a French bank account, you need a resident permit which is a big bureaucratic deal. We were expecting a big hassle at the local bank but the south of France reaction seems to be to shrug at such foolishness and ignore the rules. Then, there’s always the European Union and all its new rules and regulations you can blame for being confused (and they usually do!).
We really love our little apartment. We have two bedrooms, a large living/dining room, a large (with washing machine) bathroom, large balcony, and a Lillipution kitchen.. It’s rather like playing house with everything so small. The kitchen is really quite cute and is described as an “American kitchen” which I thought meant it had everything...stove, fridge, dishwasher, blender, juicer, toaster, coffee-maker, microwave, etc. (I’ve learned since that “American kitchen” means it’s an open plan so it isn’t shut away in a separate room.) Our apartment is decorated in a nautical theme - really well done and excellent dishes, glassware, etc. Our front window is rather like a large porthole and you can cosy up to the window and perch on the couch watching the activities of the port and the street. They have very nice illuminations on the street at night and we love being a few steps away from everything. It’s so much fun to shop daily.
I haven’t done much reading except the London Times that a little grocery store ordered in everyday for me. Also, we became members of the local library and are taking out books and magazines on Provence mainly. We’ve got some excellent books on the trees and flowers of the area.
Jim’s Camosun email is working well but my Shaw webmail keeps bouncing me off - no doubt a combination of Shaw and a poor connection and slow computer in Jim’s office. It’s not convenient for me to go to the university anyway and there isn’t an Internet cafe close by so I guess I’ll be writing in the old style - I may even learn calligraphy while I’m at it! I’m collecting ideas for painting but haven’t done anything yet, although I have set up a studio in our bedroom and have adapted a clothes valet for an easel.
Jim’s first teaching day yesterday went very well and he enjoyed the students very much. He begins with a two hour lecture then later has two 1 1/2 hr seminars with this group broken in two. Today, he has a repeat two hour lecture and no seminars. That’s his teaching except for some special lectures so we’ll have Wed-Sun free for exploring the area. It turned out to be a rather stressful day as well as they were testing the fire alarm almost constantly during the entire day. Someone hadn’t returned the key for the video cupboard so seminar plans had to be reorganized, printer cartridges still hadn’t arrived even though he had been asking for them for 2 weeks, canteen was inexplicably closed so lunch was a kit-kat bar and a coke, and various other things.
Amitié a tous,
Jim and Janice
P.S. Jim says him mixing of red and green lights is a “pack of lies”....you be the judge!
Tuesday, December 31, 2002
Happy New Year to everyone!
For the next while I've decided to post some of my first drawings that were inspired by la belle France and also the letters I wrote last winter when we were in Provence. I've been typing them up and it's really fun for me to read about these thing I've partly forgotten already.
The second still-life I did and one I still love very much.
8 x 10 on paper with pencil crayons
Carqueiranne, France
Lettre de Provence - #1
Feb. 12/02
Chers amis,
I am siting writing this in the sun with the balcony door open on my new tablecloth typiquement Provençale with sunflowers and olive branches. I never tire of the blues, reds, and yellows of le sud. I thought I would spend most of the trip looking for that special santon de Provence to keep my fisherman (from another trip) company. Would you believe I found the perfect one the first day in this little village! It is a painter with a smock (almost as messy as I manage to get my T-shirts...) with palette and brush in hand. There is also an easel with a typical provençale scene in the painting- a terracotta tile roofed house and cypress trees. In Hyeres I saw another wonderful santon scene - 4 men playing cards at a table with a Pastis bottle and glasses. The store was closed for annual holidays with no specified return date - very “midi” like. We’re reaccustoming ourselves for everything closing down for 2-4 hours in the afternoon - except restaurants, of course.
We had a very smooth flight, everything on time, baggage all arrived, and got the car very quickly. Nice airport is quite small and manageable and rather laid back. The customs people were nowhere to be seen so we didn’t even have to clear customs and our baggage was there in minutes. The flight from Frankfurt to Nice (about 1 hr. 10 min.) was great as we followed the Swiss Alps, the French Alps, then the Maritime Alps on the Mediterranean. We hadn’t travelled that route in winter so it was amazing to see the snow coverage. The Nice airport is located right on the Mediterranean so it’s a wonderful way to enter France...although nothing can quite beat stumbling bleary-eyed from your couchette compartment after tossing and turning all night on the overnight train from Paris to see the bluest of skies and the Mediterranean in all its glory and the familiar paysage du midi.
We couldn’t believe the weather on the 25th of January....sunny, blue blue skies and around 20 degrees. We sat on our hotel balcony overlooking the Promenade des Anglais and seriously thought of trying to find the shorts we had packed for April in Italy. Instead we cracked open a bottle of rosé de Provence from the mini-bar.
Everyone at the university where Jim is teaching is very nice and the university is quite pleasant. However, it is located in an area of industrial parks and big box stores - a bit of a shock after the charm of Nice. We have found a wonderfully charming village on the ocean called Carqueiranne which is only about a 15 minute drive to the university. We have fallen in love with this village, the people, and the way of life.
We began in the ground floor of a villa with the owners upstairs. We had a beautiful garden all to ourselves. They’ve been terrific - so friendly, inviting us up for drinks and appies. I mentioned I liked flowers so she ordered some special flowers for me from a friend who is a grower. She also gave us gifts of her home made lemon wine and orange marmelade made from the oranges and lemons in her garden. This is the season for oranges and lemons and it’s really neat to see all the trees laden with fruit. All the little villages have their flower festivals. Right now all the Mimosa (Acacia) trees are in bloom - beautiful yellow flowers a little like our broom.
We did find the lower level a little cool and we were hoping for a sea view so we did find a great modern apartment (we control the heat!) right in the port. The village is still very close and there are lots of interesting little shops and restaurants here as well.
We’ve had some wonderful meals - fish soup with rouille, mussels, fabulously fresh shrimp and prawns, various local fish and of course the usual wonderful free range chicken, eggs, wonderful lamb and pork - all the veg and fruits taste so fresh and “of the earth”. The markets have been really fun and we’ve some great cheeses from farms and saucage to die for.
We’ve also had a great time at flea markets. We really scored in adding five more water bottles for pastis to our collection and some neat French popular music from the 60’s. Jim tend to ferrat out smelly old books....
(to be cont'd)
For the next while I've decided to post some of my first drawings that were inspired by la belle France and also the letters I wrote last winter when we were in Provence. I've been typing them up and it's really fun for me to read about these thing I've partly forgotten already.
The second still-life I did and one I still love very much.
8 x 10 on paper with pencil crayons
Carqueiranne, France
Lettre de Provence - #1
Feb. 12/02
Chers amis,
I am siting writing this in the sun with the balcony door open on my new tablecloth typiquement Provençale with sunflowers and olive branches. I never tire of the blues, reds, and yellows of le sud. I thought I would spend most of the trip looking for that special santon de Provence to keep my fisherman (from another trip) company. Would you believe I found the perfect one the first day in this little village! It is a painter with a smock (almost as messy as I manage to get my T-shirts...) with palette and brush in hand. There is also an easel with a typical provençale scene in the painting- a terracotta tile roofed house and cypress trees. In Hyeres I saw another wonderful santon scene - 4 men playing cards at a table with a Pastis bottle and glasses. The store was closed for annual holidays with no specified return date - very “midi” like. We’re reaccustoming ourselves for everything closing down for 2-4 hours in the afternoon - except restaurants, of course.
We had a very smooth flight, everything on time, baggage all arrived, and got the car very quickly. Nice airport is quite small and manageable and rather laid back. The customs people were nowhere to be seen so we didn’t even have to clear customs and our baggage was there in minutes. The flight from Frankfurt to Nice (about 1 hr. 10 min.) was great as we followed the Swiss Alps, the French Alps, then the Maritime Alps on the Mediterranean. We hadn’t travelled that route in winter so it was amazing to see the snow coverage. The Nice airport is located right on the Mediterranean so it’s a wonderful way to enter France...although nothing can quite beat stumbling bleary-eyed from your couchette compartment after tossing and turning all night on the overnight train from Paris to see the bluest of skies and the Mediterranean in all its glory and the familiar paysage du midi.
We couldn’t believe the weather on the 25th of January....sunny, blue blue skies and around 20 degrees. We sat on our hotel balcony overlooking the Promenade des Anglais and seriously thought of trying to find the shorts we had packed for April in Italy. Instead we cracked open a bottle of rosé de Provence from the mini-bar.
Everyone at the university where Jim is teaching is very nice and the university is quite pleasant. However, it is located in an area of industrial parks and big box stores - a bit of a shock after the charm of Nice. We have found a wonderfully charming village on the ocean called Carqueiranne which is only about a 15 minute drive to the university. We have fallen in love with this village, the people, and the way of life.
We began in the ground floor of a villa with the owners upstairs. We had a beautiful garden all to ourselves. They’ve been terrific - so friendly, inviting us up for drinks and appies. I mentioned I liked flowers so she ordered some special flowers for me from a friend who is a grower. She also gave us gifts of her home made lemon wine and orange marmelade made from the oranges and lemons in her garden. This is the season for oranges and lemons and it’s really neat to see all the trees laden with fruit. All the little villages have their flower festivals. Right now all the Mimosa (Acacia) trees are in bloom - beautiful yellow flowers a little like our broom.
We did find the lower level a little cool and we were hoping for a sea view so we did find a great modern apartment (we control the heat!) right in the port. The village is still very close and there are lots of interesting little shops and restaurants here as well.
We’ve had some wonderful meals - fish soup with rouille, mussels, fabulously fresh shrimp and prawns, various local fish and of course the usual wonderful free range chicken, eggs, wonderful lamb and pork - all the veg and fruits taste so fresh and “of the earth”. The markets have been really fun and we’ve some great cheeses from farms and saucage to die for.
We’ve also had a great time at flea markets. We really scored in adding five more water bottles for pastis to our collection and some neat French popular music from the 60’s. Jim tend to ferrat out smelly old books....
(to be cont'd)
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)